Lude Generation

Stan wrote:Stolen from HR....



1. Remove the 6 Screws and the blue thing circled in Red (Dont worry about the screw in the middle as this holds a small heatsink onto a voltage regulator)

2. Release the plastic clips shown in Yellow (I think there is another one just off the pic on the far right)

3. Gently raise the large board upwards taking care to not damage the pins that go into the cluster that are under where the Green circles are

4. As you raise the larger board watch out for any cables that you may not have unplugged and the ribbon cable (dont bother trying to unplug it) highlighted with the Blue circle

5. When you have the larger board up a bit just lever up the smaller board (attached by the ribbon cable) and again watch the pins underneath the Green circles

Be careful with the pins I mention they connect to the needles inside the cluster

These are the bad capacitors:



The best thing to do is take em both off the board by desoldering them as either one of them or both would have leaked nasty crap onto the tracks below!

When you have removed them use a multimeter with a continuity test feature to trace which tracks are too corroded to conduct then attempt to repair the tracks or bypass them with a short length of wire.

The best way to work out which ones they are is to follow them all the way to the points they terminate on the board and place the multimeter probes at the ends of them.


BTW the caps are fairly low profile (330 uF IIRC) so it might be worth checking the dimensions of em before getting a new set

toffobob wrote:K first things first, thanks CUTZ, it never occured to me to try this!,

Ive had this problem for about a year now and when i thought the only way to fix was to resolder capacitors etc i gave up, but trying it this way works perfectly!

Heres a rough guide how to do it (took about an hour start to finish)

1. remove speaker grills
2. remove the cover above the dashlights (about 8 screws)
3. remove the rubber seal from the bottom of the dashlights
4. remove 4 screws from outer edges of the dashlight assembly
5. remove 1 screw from the centre divider of the glass
6. remove left side of dashglass first, its held in place with push clips at the top
7. unplug whichever plugs u can from the speedo/rev assembly as you can (its quite tight around there)
8. remove the cluster carefully (prising from the bottom and sliding up)

ok, now youve got the main cluster assembly out of the dash so here goes:

9. Undo the 3 screws circled:



10. solder the wires as shown (make sure you put the wires to the same terminals that are coloured!)



11. Job done, both dials are working!

Pushki wrote:Maybe this thread could be kept in the Wiki?

JEBB4 wrote:now tha speedo is telling me im doing 15mph when im sat still

Pushki wrote:

JEBB4 wrote:now tha speedo is telling me im doing 15mph when im sat still

Same symptoms I had. Try the fix above for the needle illumination.
This seemed to sort out all of my issues.