Lude Generation

Bit of a weird one but after washing the car today i noticed it was reluctant to start. After inspecting things it seems the high level brake light and both rear cluster brake lights were illuminated hence the low battery level and difficult to start. I had to unplug all the brake lights. So brake lights were on with no key in ignition and no footbrake depressed and no handbrake on....... any suggestions welcome.

Sounds like a brake pedal switch or relay issue.

were you hoovering around the footwell area at all? Do any other maintenance jobs as part of the cleaning?

First check is the brake light switch as mentioned. not sure if the brake lights are controlled by a relay or not...

Thanks for the quick replies

Now you mention the footwell area - i did pick up some bits of plastic from drivers footwell.....so like you mention it must be the brake light switch...the bits of plastic would be tip of the switch that has crumbled....sure i can get one off ebay but if anyone has a genuine part or the part number handy that would also help.

my 3rd brake light has been on for years, but not the main rear cluster. ive put my fault down to water ingress into the 3rd brake light (the times i've removed it, water has poured out) plus i regularly get the brake light warning on the dash, but i ignore it

I have had a look at the diagram for the brake pedal and it seems to be the plastic/rubber pad that the brake light switch rests on that has broken - hopefully i can find something that will replace it until the correct part arrives. It is good news that it is not an electrical fault but more a mechanical failure of simple small plastic part.
A few years ago I did have water going into the high level 3rd brake light so i removed the rear washer jet on the roof and that sorted that out.

Got this fixed and back on the road
It was the pad stopper for the brake switch that had broken off - just replaced it with a spare door card panel fastener - so no cost incurred

I guess the reason the light was on was because the presumably metal part of the switch was grounding out through the metal part of the brake pedal? Or is it because without the stopper, the pedal doesn't press the switch in enough?

Without the pad/stopper in place the plunger/contact part of the brake light switch just passes through the hole in the pedal assembly meaning the brake lights are in the on position all the time. so yes without the stopper the pedal doesn't press the switch in.

Glad you got it fixed.