Faint Knocking when accelerating

Post by **Donald** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:03 pm

I would change it. They're cheap enough (langdon4x4 on eBay, ~£20 a pair) and it's an easy job. Even I managed it.

Might not be the cause but it will eliminate one possibility.

Post by **Doggo** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:12 pm

Hold onto it while the car coughs. If it doesn't move you've got trouble. Something like that anyway.

(remember to warm your hands first)

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:39 pm

you cant tell from pics get a prybar in between the arms see if you make get any movement

JDM-BB4 · Post by **JDM-BB4** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:00 pm

Play in the Cv joints?

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 9:20 pm

personally i would undo the nuts that hold the arb link arms to the lower arms on both sides. you can then check for movement in the ball joint ends.

also as you have removed the links from the lower arms, you can then rock the arb up and down and twist and push and pull to see if there is any movement in the d bush

in fact looking at this image again i would say it has some slight play as the paint is clean very close to the d bush.

as the rubber in the first pic is perished any way and you have it apart id replace it as a matter of course.
if the ball ends are nice and tight then i would buy 1 of these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Prelude ... 4d092630ac

this can then be used to replace both sides as you would only need 2 rubbers per side. 4 in kit.

but if the ball ends are loose or the link arm rotates with little or no resistance i would buy a pair of these.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anti-Roll-Bar ... 484dcb75e6

BMCC · Post by **BMCC** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 12:03 pm

The drop links on my car would rattle like a git going over rough tarmac. Its an easy hear. Its difficult to tell from your pics but to me there is not enough thread on the end of the drop links i.e they look to me as if they need tightened particularly the passenger side one. There could be a bit of play in them. Difficult to tell though when the wheels are off the ground.

You will not need a rewind tool to check the rear brakes if you are not going to change the pads. It's only when you change the pads that you need to rewind the piston in to make way for the thicker pads.

prelude_h22 · Post by **prelude_h22** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 12:25 pm

I would change it. They're cheap enough (langdon4x4 on eBay, ~£20 a pair) and it's an easy job. Even I managed it.

Might not be the cause but it will eliminate one possibility.

Thanks Donald - Yeah will get these changed anyway. Already contacted Langdon4x4 and will be supplying a pair for me - Helpful chap

Play in the Cv joints?

How would i check for play in the CV joints?

Thanks honda-hardy - Will look to change the ARB bushes anyway. They dont cost too much. I really should have removed the droplinks and tested the anti roll bar for play. Will do that next weekend.

BMCC - Thanks for that. Will have a more detailed look this coming weekend. Duly noted in regards to the re-wind tool. I wondered why i didnt need to push the piston back on the fronts

PHIL88 · Post by **PHIL88** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 11:33 pm

well i said in my post last week on this that my brakes seemed ok and it must be something else- what a numpty i feel now after a trip back from Peterbrough i find the nearside rear caliper was jammed on the whole journey which destroyed me brake pads and disc and have now got to have the whole lot replaced!! Wounder! shows what i know! And i still haven't addressed the terrible squealing coming from the front near side which i believe is the bushes.

stk prelude · Post by **stk prelude** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 11:50 pm

Get to PAW if you can mate.. could be anything.. ball joints.. bush.. etc etc

vtectom · Post by **vtectom** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:14 am

Rich at PAW can supply polybushes for your arb drop-links as I can see splits in your current ones, but I not sure that's the problem. Fairly cheap & easy to replace as a starter though