
It's a 1993 JDM BB4, imported in 2001 I think. It lived in Bristol til I bought it in 2007, and has just turned 200K miles. Fresh MoT today (new Megan Racing rear toe arms, front balljoint, & wheel bearing - 4-wheel alignment done). Has 17" 5-spoke alloys which I painted white (pretty well, I might add) 7 or 8 years ago. They could do with re-finishing, but aren't in a poor state or anything. Just a bit paint-chipped here and there. The car as a whole could use a good polish and wax, which I may get a chance to do if it stops raining. Paint is generally good, bit faded here and there. It was resprayed about 8 years ago, so no clear-coat. Any fading is of the paint itself rather than misting lacquer, and can therefore be sorted.
I've had the car 10 years and 140K miles, and have kept on top of things as they needed fixing or replacing. It's not in a desperate state by any means (I need a reliable car), but is starting to sprout rusty patches which I no longer have the time or inclination to keep on top of. I always said I'd keep it til it tipped 200K, which it did a couple of weeks ago.
Generally decent car, apart from aforementioned tin-worm appearing around both the rear and front arches. The odd small patch elsewhere, at the bottom corner of the rear window, a bit under the rear number plate, and another under the rear squirter. Not through the metal anywhere as yet. I've oiled and waxoyled inside the rear arches for a few years now, sprayed via the boot and from the inside of the car as far as possible. I've kept the underneath waxoyled regularly, though its age is starting to show a bit. It had poly bushes all round the rear a few years ago, holding up very well. ARB bushes are all good, too. Lower power steering pipes replaced with very fresh ones around a year ago. The front bumper is a bit saggy, but not so you'd notice unless you haul it up and down - self tappers in to the wings would fix it properly in place. Fuel filler neck has the bend section replaced with rubber hose.
A/C doesn't blow cold, though the compressor appears to be operational. New radiator maybe 5 years ago, silicon rad hoses and a couple of new coolant hoses around the same time. Thermostat about 6 months ago. Temperature holds steady.
New fuel tank last year sometime - totally protected before installation. New windscreen about a year ago (think it's my 4th!), proper brown glass.
Two new tyres on the back and full alignment done. Fronts are about 4mm tread. New rear bearing a month ago.
Full stainless exhaust from manifold down, with new CAT and flexi section installed by exhaust specialist this year. Splendid custom-built and unique stainless twin pipe at the back, which has lasted me 10 years and shows no signs of corroding. Bit grunty, but not excessively so. Can be driven in a fairly civilised manner - the neighbours don't complain or anything. Goes all Formula One at high revs, though.

EL dials, customised a bit to make them two shades of blue. Same for fuel/temp display.
There are no drips, it doesn't lose coolant or other fluids. Need to keep an eye on the oil level, perhaps half a litre every month or so. No error lights, VTEC works perfectly. Clutch is fine, gearshift easy and smooth.
Delimiter chip directly on the ECU. Currently has an enclosed cone filter on the end of the standard rubber air intake hose (which I had to repair a few years ago with proper tape - holding up fine). Also have a stainless intake pipe in the garage.
JDM black headlights, and white fogs (got at least one spare fogger unit, and maybe even a couple of surrounds still). Fogs wired via relays to come on with full beam, and also independently as required. USDM dash-dimmer wheel thing, installed on the 3-switch panel to the right of the steering wheel, which also houses front and rear fog switches. Extra on/off dimmer switch installed beside gear stick (the dimmer wheel doesn't actually dim very much). Dash covered with black flock material (like on speaker boxes). Subwoofer in boot, too.
Rear fog is by way of a converted reverse light on one side. Some LED bulbs in there, can't remember which but the ballasts are there. New rear brake pads, all sliding pins greased in the last couple of weeks. Electric aerial works.
Large pile of spares to go with the car - full set of blue Tokico shockers, a couple of standard shocks, various springs. Rear seat sex-blocker bin thing, original air intake box, original exhaust manifold, spare rocker cover, some door rubbers, etc, couple of large shoeboxes full of switches, rubber gaskets, inner door handles, pre and post facelift tweeters, brake fluid tops, all that sort of stuff. Spare set of chrome JDM headlights, a few rear light assemblies too and some indicators. Might have the original rear set of dark grey cushions and backs, can't remember. Spare VTEC solenoid assembly that probably needs an oil pressure switch. All sorts of junk like that, collected from scrap cars years ago just in case. As you do.
Currently has grey door cards with leather inserts. Original stripey inserts also. Spare couple of zebra front mats. Momo steering wheel. New set of Blueprint front brake pads (doesn't need them yet) and shims for the rears (forgot I had a new set in the garage so bought some more).
Perhaps the biggest deal is that the timing belt is due. It was done at 140K, with new pulleys, crank oil seal and an underdrive aluminium crank pulley installed. I have a new OEM crank pulley, albeit with a chip out of the edge. Also a new QH water pump, but don't intend to get the job done before selling the car. There's no indication that the timing belt is worn or anything, but the 60K interval is up.
So, after that lengthy description, can anyone suggest what kind of price would be sensible and not too cheeky to ask?
There's always the option of a fleabay auction and let it find its own price, I guess, but I'd prefer if it didn't go to some hoon who's immediately going to rip out the H22 for some stock car type nonsense. It's got too much life left in it for that.