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wllm · Post by **wllm** » Thu Jan 28, 2021 11:28 am

Drax wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 27, 2021 7:37 pm
Excellent work well done!! I'm jealous you have a working lude lol what was the p28 & Neptune for, you have some aftermarket parts fitted to tune in?

Thanks

This car was originally fitted with a H22a2 with a eudm P13 ecu and was chipped with something unknown (maybe something spoon like). Vtec was early and revlimit was a little high. The engine was blown and has been replaced by a H22a. After that I became the owner of this car and little was known about the P13 ecu and as I felt that it could run better I started my search for a P13 tuner. But all tuners said they won't do a P13. I wanted a long term solution where tuners would never say to me again that they don't have the software or equipment to work on my prelude so when I found a civic on the junkyard with a P28 I took it out and bought it for 40 euro's and went to a tuner and bought a neptune RTP package with a wideband O2 from plx. So whenever my engine/software needs a tuneup, I have everything the tuner needs to do his work.

I recently had my engine replaced with a completely rebuilt one as I thought my engine had brokendown after that I went to a good tuner for a tuneup, it runs great! (My IABs are functional

)

I toredown my previous engine as I expected some damage to the valves but there was no visual damage to the valves, cylinders or bearings. And last weekend I had some trouble with my new engine; I suspect the distributor as the distributor and intake are the only parts that were reused from my previous engine.

The problem was like this:
After driving for 10 kilometers to warm up the engine I did a few good pulls and the engine started to stutter in the lower rpms (900-2000). Idle it would run fine but when I gave a little throttle I felt it was stuttering. when I gave it somewhere between half and full throttle it would stall and was not able to start (I could hear the fuel pump), this was almost exactly what my previous engine did. But after letting it rest for an hour the engine started immediatly as I would expect it to.

I'm thinking maybe my icm has an intermittent issue, to be continued

--edit fix typo's

Hagland-BB4 · Post by **Hagland-BB4** » Fri Feb 19, 2021 11:44 am

Hi and welcome to the forum.

wllm · Post by **wllm** » Tue Mar 02, 2021 10:18 pm

Okay I might have found my issue, the rotor was worn and had a clearance so bad, you wouldn't believe it that the engine would run at all and there are some very thin cracks in the housing of the ingitor. I'm going to rebuild my distrubutor and have my tune updated.

Post by **Drax** » Thu Mar 04, 2021 8:45 am

wllm wrote: ↑
Tue Mar 02, 2021 10:18 pm
Okay I might have found my issue, the rotor was worn and had a clearance so bad, you wouldn't believe it that the engine would run at all and there are some very thin cracks in the housing of the ingitor. I'm going to rebuild my distrubutor and have my tune updated.

excellent work. the dizzy's & their workings on ludes are a very common failing point. i had a lude that was sat a good few years that needed the clearances done too before she would even start

wllm · Post by **wllm** » Sun Sep 26, 2021 11:18 am

An update:

My dizzy has been rebuilt with oem parts and she runs good now

I recapped my safety indicator circuit, it was having some issues where the parking brake light would randomly light up. This causes my ABS and 4WS to throw an error and go to safe mode, which is not nice. As it turns out leaking caps where corroding and shorting the safety indicator board.

Corroded traces cleaned.

Applied new uv-curable soldermask

Recapped end result

I also recapped my fuel/temp gauge (don't worry about C8, I discovered it just in time

Also my project to retrofit bluetooth with an oem radio is progressing well. I got another radio which has cd-changer support. I'm able to send and receive M-Bus messages and fool the radio. It's not perfect yet but the basics are there. Currently designing a circuit board to fit my bluetooth module, an ESP32 wrover and some circuitry to handle the mbus protocol.

Even now I still discover new things about the history of my car. It had an accident in the early 2000's, the previous owner replaced the dash and steering wheel with non SRS parts. But the sensors and SRS ecu are still there. It's fitted with an SRS type I. I recently got my hands on a dash with airbag (type I or type III). I still need the srs+cruise clockspring and steering wheel airbag for type I.

wllm · Post by **wllm** » Sat Feb 18, 2023 6:45 pm

Ok So I've received my JDM DSP set from Thailand.

I opened it up first because it looked quite dirty and it was. I cleaned it up as good as I could in two hours time and did a powertest. The backlight is a bit weak so I decided to hook up the DSP to the radio, wrong choice.... The backlight lit up but when I pressed power I heard a crackle and smelled rotten fish so yeah, leaky caps in the DSP

Hopefully the crackle I heard wasn't too serious...

This to do:
* Cleanup and inspect DSP. Repair is definitly required.
* Repair cassette player, the belt completely disintegrated and melted all over the place...
* Inspect power and backlight

To be continued!

I opened it up and it was terribly disgusting to say the least. It was sticky, smelly and dirt everywhere.

After a bit of cleaning

Smoketest

Post by **JEBB4** » Sat Feb 18, 2023 7:34 pm

Wow your knowledge of electronics is impressive.. good knowledge to have on these old cars as there at an age where things like this go wrong and replacement parts are hard to come by.. good work keep it up

Also you should start a build thread in the “Lude Profiles” section..

wllm · Post by **wllm** » Sat Feb 18, 2023 8:29 pm

JEBB4 wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 18, 2023 7:34 pm
Wow your knowledge of electronics is impressive.. good knowledge to have on these old cars as there at an age where things like this go wrong and replacement parts are hard to come by.. good work keep it up

Thanks for the compliment

My knowledge of electronics needs more improvement

I'm trying to get this repaired and at the same time document the process for everybody else.

wllm · Post by **wllm** » Sat Feb 18, 2023 8:35 pm

DSP Opened up, no sign of crackle i heard before though this needs some cleaning too.

In the metal case there is another PCB, looks like some pioneer black magic is on this board, I can't find a datasheet for PD00551. This seems to be some custom chip from Pioneer.

There is a seperate 7.5 volt module which looks very crusty, these caps definitely have leaked. Corrosion everywhere.

And here is the Crackle that I heard, Q4 is broken. probably due to corrosion or shirtcircuit,. need to figure out what type of transistor it is to replace it. To me this 7.5v power supply seems important to the actual dsp processing which happens on de sub module above. Might be a weak point for more DSP sets.

CAPS DSP 7.5v Power Supply:
C1 35v 39uf 105c
C2 35v 39uf 105c
C3 10v 100uf 105c
C4 10v 33uf 105c
C5 10v 100uf 105c
C6 10v 33uf 105c
C7 50v 0.47uf 105c

The blown transistor Q4 is probably a Toshiba 2SA1213-Y(NY). Sot-89 with NY markings.

Post by **vanzep** » Sun Feb 19, 2023 5:05 pm

Here are some pics of the units i have. The ones in the car light up and everything seems to work except no sound. I have a spare set so i have had a look inside. I can only see one fault so far with the dsp unit. scorch mark on the underside of the lid was telltale sign.