Hello All

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:54 pm

welcome in buddy

i am with 4gphil on this also i am not sure the h23 crank would be upto the job of revving out like the h22 would need to without a lot of work.
A lot of this has been covered on Hondatech the clearance issues will be huge and may cause your build to stall at the first fence why not use mahle pistons on a h22 crank you will hit the numbers your looking for anyway.

Post by **4thgenphil** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:59 pm

240bhp easy especially with a bit of pnp work

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:04 pm

Welcome to LG!!

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:40 pm

Wow fast !

Ill Post up a project build, even though it isnt a Lude (sorry)

The main reason i chose the h22a5 (open deck) is because its stronger than you think!

Boost it is terrible, but for N/A applications i rather like the choice. Being open deck has its weak points but also the strong. Lightness is the key! also Heat will travel through water quicker than Alloy's H22A5 being open deck, it will transfere that heat more easily with a risk of course cracking liners! but Honda's FRM tech is possibly the strongest Liner youll come accross in the right applications.

The problems i have with the whole setup, it will work with some tweaking.

1. Piston sick's out about 0.02"
2. P2V clearance is 0.0134 with my currant HG, soo scary and not enough i need 0.04 to be safe safe
3. i want the oil squirters! you carnt have enough lube down the bottom end

3. Mahles.. iv heard alot of bad reviews with the coating eating itself and the FRM with it
(anyone clear that up for me?)
4: crank needs to be knife-edged
5: rotating assem need to be balanced
6: it will only be rev'd to 7800 ish give or take where the power drops off

i was thinking some Golden Eagle H23 rods + Mahle's but the price is abit too much

The key to that parts list is Bang Per Buck i can get the whole F22 bottem end for Penny's! Cheap stroker

A b-seres box will fit with an adaptor plate, yes the engine stick out of the civic a little but nothing a few washers carnt solve!

If the plan fails, i can fall on my inital idea of just using the H22 block, crank, rods, type-s pistons and the whole topend the same as above will still make 240+ hp but the torque wont be the same

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:42 pm

EG_H22 wrote:Chop chop bro want to see the h2b civic. U not getting more to merge the b to the h for ya seems a good price buddy?
Ill send u my spec list if u want to give u some advice on parts? Box wise id rather have the s80 might be abit more pricey but worth it.

Please do mate!

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:49 pm

4thgenphil wrote:many an issue with this build i forsee having looked long and hard into h23 vtec!
firstly, h22a5, open deck block! not good, the best option would be a h22a imo

have you looked into valve to piston clearances especially with mahle golds? it'll be tight! especially if you have the head skimmed! also to check this you have to have the vtec lobe LMA's enabled
this brings me on neatly to atr/type s pistons. do a bit of reasearch, there was a good couple of cases of the ringlands destroying themselves in this build due to the high compression!

ARP every where and i would be tempted to say after market rods as the compression figures are HUGE!

any way, good luck! i may still go down that route once i have modified a set of rods!

and most importantly WELCOME!

to continue, you will need to have the h23 rods modified to run mahles or atr pistons

the whole bottom end rotating assembly will have to be balanced and make sure you use the oil squirters from what even h22 you choose, these will again have to be modified mind!

also a h23 block is the same as a h22a just the h23 has a little extra part so oil doesnt get directed to where the oil pick up is for the h22 vtec head!

other than that is all a piece of body lemonade!

This is what i need!

Heard of those cases yes, a tad worried However i havent bought any so im safe for now!

With the Mahles the piston will poke out the cylinder by atleast 0.023" Not great!

The A5 i think is a fine block! i need open deck, for the Heat transfer ability's (she's going to be a track slut)

+ if she's say's NO! ill rip out her sleeve and cheat on some Dartons!

Im never going to boost it, so open deck should be fine

thanks for the advice, i await some more info !

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:50 pm

AdrianH2B wrote:
If the plan fails, i can fall on my inital idea of just using the H22 block, crank, rods, type-s pistons and the whole topend the same as above will still make 240+ hp but the torque wont be the same

It wont be far off though.
Purely for ref, check out my profile thread if you like.

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:57 pm

Just to add, i will be purchesing a block guard to reinforce those cylinder walls.

AdrianH2B · Post by **AdrianH2B** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 12:00 am

How far do you think?

I was estimating around 15-20 Tq loss with Mods

Iv been told mabye 5-10 tq loss which i could make up for easily.

Been looking at mahle's, there darn pricy!

Heard mixed reviews of the coating eating itself and ruining the FRM liners, is that true? or is it some crap that a yank made up!

EDIT - if i skimmed my head 0.0223 id get an 11.5:1 Comp with type-S pistons let alone Mahle's which i going to find the spec for now

mart609 · Post by **mart609** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:07 am

Hi and welcome

look forward to your build thread

Lude Generation

Hello All

Re: Hello All