Sc'd boost or na itb's?

[Mudgey]

Personally there is another vote here for the supercharged corner! The extra power throughout the whole rev range is amazing, just think of it as running a 3-4ltr version of your current engine, the only down side is that you don't get the glorious induction noise, don't get me wrong, I love the supercharger whine but....

With regards to final drive, its only worth considering a final drive if you are struggling to get the power down, if you haven't already, get stickier tyres, if not look at traction control. I personally prefer the shorter gears but then I have an extra gear to play with which is also a good motor way gear.

These days a k20 swap is looking like an affordable option compared to a built H22 Just food for thought

[nucleustylzlude]

Rob, I found the biggest problem with my block is the overbore, I've looked at it before and everywhere said .25 max for boost but I'm pretty sure mines a .5 overbore which kind of rules out that option.

My current standard clock could prob just do with a quick home and new piston rings

That's a good plan to copy ur cooler rob, can I make yours first and then learn for my mistakes and do my own haha

It does all come down to the condition of it all, I was wondering if the rotors are rusty or anything, can I swap them with another charger??

??? So what do you have in the current lude, and what engine did you plan to build? Getting confused about a 0.5 overbore that's all. You say you can use your standard block (or clock! ), just go with that – why do you feel the need to give it a hone (or home! ) and new piston rings? Throw it on and have some fun I say. 6psi from the JRSC won’t be like 6psi from a turbo setup, the linear fashion of the boost delivery is a lot less harsh than a turbo. It’s just the damn inlet temps that are a pain. But the amount of 6psi JRSC ludes running around in the US are 10 a dollar! And that’s using the overfuelling FMU/JR Electronics stuff you get with the kit.

Unless we’re talking blocks that you know need work, scoring or low compression tests?

Learn from my inlets mistakes! You sir, are a comedian! It would be the perfect opportunity to build one though, you can see first hand how I need to get it to fit without sending you all the JR plenum, etc. I have a ton of pics of the new pickup against the inlet you did for me and its perfect size wise. Just some cutting and welding some new metal to mate them up.

Yeah, check the condition first. As for rotors, I’m pretty sure you could use some rotors off of another M62 from a Merc 230 Kompressor but lets wait and see to think about that. It’s not so much rust on them, they are Teflon coated from the factory. It’s what of this coating has come off, if at all which would suggest age and mileage of the unit. Then the scoring of the edges of the fins and on the very ends of the rotors, this will also suggest age and mileage, but can be remedied to a point with a quick rebuild with some new bearings, coupler and oil. I’ve found a good company in the UK that rebuilds Jag/Land rover M112’s. They sell oil refill kits and have a how to on their site for the M112’s, it’s the same for M62’s. Certainly helped me feel more confident about doing mine in a couple of years.

Anything else, just shoot. But I say charger all the way.

I’d re-iterate Merlin on the full build then ITB’s, but just an opinion from someone who’s never looked at that route, only have the guru’s advice to go on.

[106pete]

Not like I have any experience of them myself but this is what the Lude god has to say on the subject (who has also ran ITB's on an H22a7):

ITB's should really be considered as the "cherry on top of the icing on the cake" as far as H22 tuning goes.

Use OE intake manifold for mild tuning (I/H/E/St1 cams)
Sk2 / ATR single stage intake manifold for medium to high tune level (I/H/E/high comp,higher revs, wild cams)
ITB's for high tune to full race all steel forged motor.

ITB's on a mild tune motor will make little difference to the outright power level (although power delivery can be improved). Road manners will deteriorate significantly and require regular checking on set up/balance.

Don't forget that it's not just a set of ITB's that you need. You will also need (depending on ITB setup) - fuel pressure reg, new fuel lines, some vacuum line work (depending on how many creature comforts you want to keep), filter plate and filter or airbox, wiring mods, proper standalone ecu capable of running ITBs properly, lots of time in setup and dyno work.

In short... ITB's fully fitted and setup doesn't come cheap.

http://preludeuk.forumup.com/viewtopic. ... =preludeuk

These are the results my friend saw, this clip was taken from a discussion on what engine is best to replace the xu in the peugeots

"it was 209bhp/159lbft as standard. Add DTA management and bodies (approx £1600) and it's immediately giving 230+bhp/189lbft and it still averages 33mpg"

[106pete]

Rob- my spec in the first post is for the engine I was planning on fitting next year, my current is bog standard internally, I would like to HONE it with new rings as it does use some oil and smokes, I can just see that getting worse with boost?

I've got no worries about slapping the charger on the current engine and seeing how it goes, it's just the mapping and ecu costs atm.

I'm glad to hear you've already sourced the rebuild stuff, I may very well be requiring that soon

Thanks for the advice guys it's really helping.

I am wondering if I'll feel the 130mph at 8k will not be enough for me on boost tho, I'd be happier if it was a little more

[nucleustylzlude]

I see. I say for the cost of just a proper hone and rings, assuming you’re doing a strip down and rebuild yourself, is still an outlay to prepare for what could just be a quick install and fun drive. It’s always a gamble with boost without sleeving or forged Mahles, so why not enjoy it as it is on 6psi and see how she fares before investing some cash and time on a standard block. Surely all these ludes you’ve been breaking you have a couple of H22’s knocking about?

Then think beyond that with a spare block whether you want to keep the charger and push it further (I can help you here), or go the ITB’s route. So you get the chance of boost without compromising the other option. Worst case scenario you bust an engine or its components and it’s back to square one deciding whether to sell it on and continue with ITB’s. Or maybe you loved the 6psi linear delivery of the JRSC and want to build something a little more tough to take it further? In the grand scheme of engines going it’ll be a piston / rings melting cos of high intake temps causing detonation / pre-detonation, so you’d still have a block to do whatever you like with, even if you didn’t have a spare. Then on the flip side, best case scenario, the engine holds up really well on a good tune and proper fuelling and lasts as long until you decide to keep it and take it further, or sell it on and go ITB’s again. So it’s win, win for me. Slap it on and see what happens. Some decent tuning and fuelling will help no end though, and is a cost you’ll need to outlay on the ITB’s route anyway?

Just food for thought, your choice at the end of the day, but I’d love to see another charged car (that even moves!) and not so far from me too!

Can’t remember if I had your email address or not, maybe your Paypal addy is the same? Can I send you some of the pics I’ve taken of the inlet manifold and chargecooler lined up at different angles? It should make sense what I need doing then. Turned out the item I bought was a brand new in box item. They have the other side chargecooler of the V8 still for sale - £76 delivered for a £300-400 odd item new. You want the link? Then it’s just a pump – Bosch £40 second hand or £70 new, some piping and a heat exchanger rad – custom like me or a second hand OEM item from a jag/focus RS/landrovers, etc. A little outlay but adds so much more safety with lower intake temps, you could 6psi all day, or 9 like me.

[FrontBackSide2Side]

what is the engine like out of the car you just bought? has it had any work done on it i.e pistons or sleeving etc?

[106pete]

what is the engine like out of the car you just bought? has it had any work done on it i.e pistons or sleeving etc?

I don't know till this weekend, I think for now I'll assume it's pretty standard block.

Rob- yeah same email matey skellypeter@hotmail.com, I do fancy just slapping it on with the cooler and see how it goes.

My biggest problem is that I can't afford to hang onto both set ups, one will have to be forsale pretty soon

[nucleustylzlude]

Right I'll send em over now from my work email - perhaps a couple of batches of emails.

Good point about checking out the engine in the current JRSC'd 5th gen. A quick inspection and compression test could be interesting.

I see your issue, this was obviously bought with the intention to make your money back selling the bits on. Can you not break (excuse the pun) even with the other parts on the car? I spotted a bonnet, shocks, manifold, exhaust (cough), rare high level spoiler, amongst a few things?

Your decision ultimately. Pics on there way though.

[106pete]

Cheers matey, yeah if I can sell enough bits to cover the cost of the car itself ill be happy keeping both for awhile but our wedding is coming up in a years time, so can't afford to hoard to many bits lol

[nucleustylzlude]

so can't afford to hoard to many bits lol

Don't know what you mean.