Front & Rear window seal removal?

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 3:54 pm

Has anyone removen these on a 5th Gen. The front and rear outer seals.
Im respraying the whole car and iv like to get in all the crannies. Especially the front. The rear isnt as important as the seals dont overlap onto the roof and pillars like the front.

Is it a part thats likely to break when removed. Sod law will have it that it will leak after too.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:28 pm

Yer they are £89 from Honda.
I think the rear will be fine left alone. The front i shall rip out and get that seal. Thanks.

vti2003 · Post by **vti2003** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:23 pm

The front just pulls out as said above. Nice and easy.

The rear is a biiiiiiiitch. I had to cut mine into sections to get it off and it still took me about 4 hours with a rubber mallet and a plastic scraper/drift to get the sections off. Getting it off in one piece would be impossible I would think.

I picked up a new one on ebay for 30ish quid from a dealer clearance and it was worse to fit than to take off. I had to get it lined up and then basically had to drift it onto the window edge with a wooden drift and rubber mallet. The stretching it takes to get over the corners is unreal. It is not a flexible seal and it needs to be stretched by a couple of inches to get it in. How I didn't crack the edges of the window I don't know. A new seal cannot just be pushed onto the window edge it is too tight. Might be OK with the window out. And I did damage a bit of the new seal fitting it

If it was me doing it again, which I will be when I spray the roof, I would stick something behind the seals to lift them away (Bit of old cable perhaps?) and then mask them. It ain't worth the grief!!

vti2003 · Post by **vti2003** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:26 pm

Also before you buy a new front check it 'cos mine went back in ok.....

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:53 pm

How did you remove the front? I went out earlier and it wouldnt budge.

Im basically spraying everything bar the bumpers. I get to use the Iwata Supernovas. Im going to spuff everywhere.

Just got to spray all the shut lines, prep all surface rust and rolled arches and key all the panels with p800.

vti2003 · Post by **vti2003** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:09 pm

Pulled it. Hard

Pull the little trim bit back at the base of the screen/top of wing to find the end and then yank.

I love Iwata's - my weapon of choice as well. I have the LPH-80. I used my Iwata to do all my shut lines, edges, awkward bits first and then did the main panels with my DevilBiss GTI Pro worked well as there was a lot to do.

But if I can get away with the Iwata that's what get used. Awesome gun

Let me know what the supernova is like - I'm looking at replacing mine shortly as it needs a few parts now.

Samiya85 · Post by **Samiya85** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:53 pm

I wouldnt recommend you to tamper
Unless u wanting to put in new windscreens

Good masking use long reach matches to wedge the rubber out so when u paint it blows into there
Give it a good clean under them rubbers

prior to paint

Post by **Lude-dude** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:04 am

yeah would leave it to the pros, unless you have all the proper windscreen removal tools

even then too risky for me

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:44 pm

vti2003 wrote:Pulled it. Hard Pull the little trim bit back at the base of the screen/top of wing to find the end and then yank.

I love Iwata's - my weapon of choice as well. I have the LPH-80. I used my Iwata to do all my shut lines, edges, awkward bits first and then did the main panels with my DevilBiss GTI Pro worked well as there was a lot to do.

But if I can get away with the Iwata that's what get used. Awesome gun

Let me know what the supernova is like - I'm looking at replacing mine shortly as it needs a few parts now.

I have 3 LPH80s. They are good small guns but limited in air flow and fan size.
I upgraded to the W300WBX on the waterbase with a 1.2 tip and the normal W300 1.3mm tip for clearcoat.
Amazing difference especially for spot/smart repairs and single panels.
The WS400 is amazing. Clearcoat goes as as glass. No texture at all. Only issue is its air hungry so a mobile compressor is struggle to keep up. But im going to get one still.

Long match sticks is not a bad idea. I will see what i can wedge in to open the rubber out a bit.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:57 pm

A bit of electrical wire between the rubber and the body works well if your leaving the seal in place.