Treating box sections/cavities with bilt hamber

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:41 pm

I've got a waxoyl kit that comes with a long hose/lance, basically with a nail in the end leaving a small gap. The idea being you push the lance all the way down a box section cavity like a sill, and as you slowly draw it out the waxoyl comes out like a fan, coating all 360 degrees inside.

I noticed using a normal forward spray yesterday, you have to spray from every which angle to get a good coating (which obviously isn't possible inside a cavity, or around difficult to reach areas).

Any idea how to do this with bilt hamber? Or should I just waxoyl the cavities and bilt hamber the accessible areas of underbody?

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:45 pm

O just seen Dynax S-50 comes complete with a 60 cm brass tipped lance. Shame it's a bit short. The waxoyl lance is three times as long!

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:46 pm

You can buy longer ones IIRC

Post by **Pushki** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:52 pm

The Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 comes with the long hose with a nozzle that has 4 spray heads.
To do the cavities on mine, I inserted the hose and kept twisting the can while spraying.
I think I got good coverage.

If you've bought more than one can of S-50, you can join two of the hoses together using the nozzle from one of the can buttons.

Post by **rob quilter** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:53 pm

Pushki wrote:I inserted the hose and kept twisting

Hur hur

Post by **Vtecmec** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:53 pm

I have a waxoyl lance for my shultz gun that sprays forward and perpendicular at 90deg intervals, just like the BH lance.

I sprayed the cavities with BH, as it's quite thin an creeps well, then did it again with waxoyl as its thicker and seems to leave a thicker film.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:54 pm

Pushki wrote:If you've bought more than one can of S-50, you can join two of the hoses together using the nozzle from one of the can buttons.

That's a good tip.

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 4:38 pm

Cheers for the tips guys

This is my little plan. I'm a do it once and do it right or don't bother kind of guy. Hence I haven't got round to doing it yet!

Jack up car as high as possible and place on 4 axle stands (or do one end at a time). Remove the wheels and put bags over the brake discs. Remove the exhaust from downpipe back, and all heatshields as necessary.

Wear a mask, goggles, a hat, and waterproofs.

Spray the underside with lots of water from a hose with a nozzle. Leave to soak for an hour, then spray again and agitate any remaining dirt with stiff brushes to remove most of the mud.

Next remove the wheel arch liners, sill protectors, inner boot trim (and other interior trims to allow access to body panels from the inside) and possibly both bumpers. Wash any very dirty exposed areas with water. Allow the whole underbody to dry slightly.

Then liberally spray the entire underbody with Surfex HD or phosphoric acid to remove grease, oil and tar, and also to attack surface rust. Work in with a wire brush (buy a kit of with various angles for getting into tight spots). Allow to work for up to an hour, then wash off and allow to dry completely (probably a few days of hot weather).

Next use a flapper wheel and rotary wire brushes to remove any deeper rust, or loose flaking paint and coatings. Cut back any rusty areas to bare metal. Remove any rust exposed from removing internal trim. Apply deox-Gel to remaining rusty areas and leave for 12 hours, spraying down with water every so often to keep it from drying out.

Wash and scrub off completely and allow to dry. Use a hairdryer to prevent rust from re-forming, then spray any areas of bare de-rusted metal with electrox zinc primer (spray into the lid and use a paintbrush for hard to reach areas). Allow to fully cure.

Perform a final dry brush off to remove any final caked on dirt, dust and grit. This should be completely dry and come off like powder. Could use a vacuum cleaner with an old brush attachment for this.

Remove box section access plug gromets from the underside of the car and spray all internal metalwork with dynax S50. Allow to dry and replace plugs.

Coat all exposed underbody areas with Dynax UB. Allow to dry.

Be sure to have coated any areas painted with zinc primer with S50 or UB depending on the location.

Continue removing access plug gromets and trims/liners from other areas of the car and treat all remaining internal metalwork with dynax S50.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:14 pm

Sounds good, though I'd look at an epoxy mastic over the top of any electrox you put on, electrox is not waterproof, and the mastic is.

Also seam sealer on any bits that come away, over the mastic.

No sure your wife will appreciate you using the hairdryer, mine didn't

, and I found it not hot enough to dry between seams, whereas a hot air gun was perfect.

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:47 pm

Vtecmec wrote:Sounds good, though I'd look at an epoxy mastic over the top of any electrox you put on, electrox is not waterproof, and the mastic is.

Maybe I could skip a step and just use a 93% zinc epoxy mastic? Bit expensive tho, hopefully I can find it in a smaller pack.

Vtecmec wrote:Also seam sealer on any bits that come away, over the mastic.

Right-ho will look into some of that. Looks like there's quite a few to choose from

Vtecmec wrote:No sure your wife will appreciate you using the hairdryer, mine didn't , and I found it not hot enough to dry between seams, whereas a hot air gun was perfect.

LOL I thought a heat gun might be too hot and melt something. I guess not!