Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
>>> Click Here For Profile <<<

>>> Click Here For Profile <<<

Speedo needle not lit
- simonc
- Supporter 2016
- Posts: 1719
- Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:32 am
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Halifax, W.Yorkshire, UK
- Has thanked: 209 times
- Been thanked: 114 times
Speedo needle not lit
Hi all, question regarding the speedo needle in 4th Gen 1993.
The rev counter needle is fine and clear but my speedo needle is impossible to see. Is there a quick fix or am I looking at something major to put it right?
Any advice or direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Simon.
The rev counter needle is fine and clear but my speedo needle is impossible to see. Is there a quick fix or am I looking at something major to put it right?
Any advice or direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Simon.
'Mr Bridger, will drive them, into the sea...'
- Kawa
- Posts: 3405
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 5:58 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- XBOX GamerTag: kawa222
- Location: Nottingham
- Contact:
Is it the traditional clocks or the electro-luminescent? If it's the traditional clocks (with normal bulbs) you will need to replace the bulb.
Difficult to explain without pictures...but...hear goes...
(Disclaimer - It's been a long time since I had standard clocks...S2000
)
Remove right hand tweater cover.
Remove the black strip that runs across the top of the clock (all the way across the dash, about 6 screws)
Remove the little plastic vertical strip that separates the clocks font glass from the larger indictor light front glass (1 screw from memory)
You should be able to see 2 screws to the left of the clocks and 2 screws to the right. Undo these and gently pull the clocks out.
Pull out the electrical connectors going into the back of the clocks.
Undo the screws on the back of the clocks and separate the clocks.
Replace the bulbs on the circuit board.
Reverse to refit.
Difficult to explain without pictures...but...hear goes...
(Disclaimer - It's been a long time since I had standard clocks...S2000

Remove right hand tweater cover.
Remove the black strip that runs across the top of the clock (all the way across the dash, about 6 screws)
Remove the little plastic vertical strip that separates the clocks font glass from the larger indictor light front glass (1 screw from memory)
You should be able to see 2 screws to the left of the clocks and 2 screws to the right. Undo these and gently pull the clocks out.
Pull out the electrical connectors going into the back of the clocks.
Undo the screws on the back of the clocks and separate the clocks.
Replace the bulbs on the circuit board.
Reverse to refit.
- simonc
- Supporter 2016
- Posts: 1719
- Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:32 am
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Halifax, W.Yorkshire, UK
- Has thanked: 209 times
- Been thanked: 114 times
Hi Kawa, thanks for such a quick and concise reply. To be frank, I don't honestly know if they're the trad or EL types. Are the instructions exclusive to the trad clocks?
If so, I'll basically cut and paste your directions and send them to my repair guy and see if he's brave enough to do it!
Thanks again.
If so, I'll basically cut and paste your directions and send them to my repair guy and see if he's brave enough to do it!
Thanks again.
'Mr Bridger, will drive them, into the sea...'
- indigolemon
- The Chaos Engine
- Posts: 6680
- Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:45 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- PSN GamerTag: M149YSL
- Location: Kelty, Fife
- Has thanked: 24 times
- Been thanked: 71 times
- Contact:
EL Dials look like this:

Non-EL dials look like this:


Non-EL dials look like this:
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage
- simonc
- Supporter 2016
- Posts: 1719
- Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:32 am
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Halifax, W.Yorkshire, UK
- Has thanked: 209 times
- Been thanked: 114 times
Top photo is mine so they're definitely EL type.
Sorry to sound a complete idiot but are the instructions Kawa wrote for the Trad type? Do the EL type that I've got need a different way to fix the speedo needle or are they one and same when it comes to this fix?
Thanks.
Sorry to sound a complete idiot but are the instructions Kawa wrote for the Trad type? Do the EL type that I've got need a different way to fix the speedo needle or are they one and same when it comes to this fix?
Thanks.
'Mr Bridger, will drive them, into the sea...'
- indigolemon
- The Chaos Engine
- Posts: 6680
- Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:45 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- PSN GamerTag: M149YSL
- Location: Kelty, Fife
- Has thanked: 24 times
- Been thanked: 71 times
- Contact:
If it's EL, I believe @Pushki has done the required fix to get an unlit needle working again. Sure he'll be happy to share the secret 

'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage
- Pushki
- Supporter 2015
- Posts: 2635
- Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:21 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- PSN GamerTag: Luigi_Black
- Location: Bluff Creek
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 10 times
Yes, I've fixed my speedo needle illumination.
This is how it looked.

There are some dodgy capacitors on the circuit board that need replacing (common problem).
I attempted this but it was unsuccessful, so I performed the quick and easy ghetto fix.
You just supply the dead needle with power from the working one by soldering two wires on the back of the circuit board (see picture below).
I've had no other problems 3 years on.

Sorted!!


This is how it looked.

There are some dodgy capacitors on the circuit board that need replacing (common problem).
I attempted this but it was unsuccessful, so I performed the quick and easy ghetto fix.
You just supply the dead needle with power from the working one by soldering two wires on the back of the circuit board (see picture below).
I've had no other problems 3 years on.


Sorted!!
