its stuck!!!!!!

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:31 pm

take it to a garage and ask them to have a go at it

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:46 pm

If was at home id come have a go for ya.

BlackShadow · Post by **BlackShadow** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:49 pm

I had the same problem with mine a while back. I jammed a stout screwdriver into the cooling fins of the brake rotor, and put my (I think I was 205 lbs at the time) frame on the end of a breaker bar. I successfully sliced the screwdriver in two like a guillotine. I never did get them off. I moved on to other smaller jobs until I could face the cold to try it again. I'll probably end up trying an impact gun and heat this time, or if that fails I'll cut them.

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:04 pm

BlackShadow wrote:if that fails I'll cut them.

This is what I wanted to sugest. Once I had the same issue. I used angle grinder to cut most of the nut but be carefull to nod damage the threat, then I continue with dremel to go as close to the treat as possible without damaging it. I did it only on one side of nut so still I was able to use socket and breaker bar. But before this I give it a bit of love with hammer and it's gone easily.
When you grinding metal and it's getting very thin (you are close to the threat) it will change it's colour. Stop grinding, use chisel and snap it, then remove the nut with breaker bar and socket as normal.

The only think is you need new nut. But anyway manual say whenever you undo this one you have to replace it with new one. Cost only a few quid

Scott560 · Post by **Scott560** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:34 pm

had trouble in the past with these.

the only loosener ive ever used that actually worked (wd40 sucks balls) is something called 'plus gas'.

other than heat, and wedging something in the brake disk, cant offer much help... good luck!

bucks420 · Post by **bucks420** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:42 pm

i had similar probs with the bottom crank pulley bolt on mine. after several attempts with 1" breaker which was trying to lift the car off the stands and various windy guns which didn't touch it i managed to get hold of a absolute beast of a windy gun, needed to change the hose and fittings on my compressor as they were huge aswel but it worked a treat

big damo · Post by **big damo** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:13 pm

I am turning the right way, left to losen right to tighten???

CrunchyAdams82 · Post by **CrunchyAdams82** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:32 pm

Well I was just thinking about that..

I know on many cars the hub nuts 'tighten' in the same direction as the forward rotation of the wheel; to make it less likely that one will come loose. But I don't know if this is the case with our cars??

If that is the case though, then the R/H hub nut should tighten clockwise, and the L/H hub nut should tighten counter-clockwise (on a reverse thread).

Can someone confirm this please? @nafemannathan, @Merlin, @honda-hardy, @tramroadmotors, @Ammo

And one question, have you had any movement at all from the nut, or is it stuck solid? If you've had some movement, then you're probably going in the wrong direction. If no movement, you may just have a properly seized nut!

'92 Si VTEC · Post by **jjmartin349571** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:36 pm

Clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen on the spigot nuts I've done on my '01 Accord and '86 Prelude.

LewisH · Post by **LewisH** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:40 pm

When i got my lude i had a snapon battery powered impact gun, i had to take off my hub nut for something i cant remember now. It took the life of 2 batterys to get it to come off. And that impact gun would undo tractor wheels at over 600nm of toruqe!!!