Near Breaking point. Car being an absolute arse again.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 3:46 pm

Thebusofwoe wrote:Maybe a blown fuse somewhere Never known a battery light to come on when there is no fault with the alternator!! Or maybe the alternator is faulty, doesn't the light go off when a certain rpm is detected by the alternator

I put all the lights on, fog. High beams etc etc and the alt measures 14v at idle. Battery measured 13.5v.
I revved it to 2k/3k and voltage actually drops to 12.5v at the alt.

Also I touched the negative battery terminal us it's hot. Not too hot to touch but maybe 10min old cup of tea hot.
So I assume earth.
The battery is earth on a clean metal rear light area. I'll try another point. See if that stablisises the voltage all over the system.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 4:01 pm

Measure the resistance between the post of the neg terminal and a body ground point. The terminal should not get hot, let alone have any heat atall.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:21 pm

Thebusofwoe wrote:Measure the resistance between the post of the neg terminal and a body ground point. The terminal should not get hot, let alone have any heat atall.

Well the issue i have an have always had is the battery terminals i use do not seat properly on the negative terminal.

Its a strange thing stinger have done to the terminals. The neg is smaller than the positive. Its complicated but putting something into the terminal helps the terminal clamp down.
The ground is fine but its the ACTUAL terminal getting hot. Its not hot on the chassis part.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:39 pm

Yea ok. How strange regarding the different size terminals. Well heat means resistance. Any resistance in a circuit will cause problems chap. And it must be quite high resistance if its getting as warm as you say it is

Need maximum contact between post and terminal.

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:44 pm

Have you tried a different battery? You may have warped the plates with all start stop fault finding? Also check the water level in the battery as I could be evaporating.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:46 pm

Yea this /\ /\. Was just thinking broken battery.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:12 pm

It's an agm dry cell stinger spv44. These things are indestructible and hold their voltage right up until they die. It cn be drained 300 times before it needs replacing.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:21 pm

You never know, could still be faulty

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:34 pm

Yes it could be.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:47 pm

Right. CHarged the battery and nothing. Still have the battery and cat light.
Took the battery out of my van and put in it and the same. Lights still there.
All fuses are good.
Wiring it sll good. Nothing shorted.

All i can assume is the alternator is causing the fault. Going to ground the absulte biatch out of the engine 1st and see if that helps.

on another note here is the HRCWANK fuel pump compares to the walbro.

So Walbro Left vs HRC right. In all pics.
Notice the HRC does not have the metal ring around the top of the pump and after install its now crushed and possibly the cause of the lack of fuel flow.

Here is the walbro installed. Its not a direct fit and i had to cable tie it to completely secure it.