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Ratty's Type S...Jap Performance Magazine porno
- jjmartin349571
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- nucleustylzlude
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You sexy thang ratty, tis a thing to behold now. I couldn't keep my eyes of it at Japfest (the car that is!).
I'd try the replacement O2 sensor option as Merc says it sounds like the OEM ECU is fighting it and leaning out. Luckily you bought a wideband with both narrowband and wideband options.
Oh and I said I would stop tarting up parts, but after seeing yours I painted some more parts including the charger - black engine enamel. Not the most perfect finish but looks loads better.
I'd try the replacement O2 sensor option as Merc says it sounds like the OEM ECU is fighting it and leaning out. Luckily you bought a wideband with both narrowband and wideband options.
Oh and I said I would stop tarting up parts, but after seeing yours I painted some more parts including the charger - black engine enamel. Not the most perfect finish but looks loads better.

- Merlin
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Taking the crown for the most powerful Lude on the forum? That is more torque than I get at the flywheelRattyMcClelland wrote: Oh yer
and 244whp & 188wlbft.....for now

My car dips into the 13's for a tiny bit midrange but becomes more rich higher up and is firmly in the 12's. Completely different engine obviously. I have my A/F graph somewhere.
Do you have power graph from your dyno run? Is your peak power around 7K rpm?
- RattyMcClelland
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Re: Ratty's Type S - Positive Displacement pumped
Yes peak power is on the rev limit and it will make power higher up but it's looses torque higher up too so no point in pushing it further. I'll scan the dyno graphs later.
But I'm solid 8.4psi to vtec then 6.3psi after vtec opens the air fir longer.
But I'm solid 8.4psi to vtec then 6.3psi after vtec opens the air fir longer.

- nucleustylzlude
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ratty how come you're still running a stock o2 sensor? have you got a wideband in there aswell?RattyMcClelland wrote:They way it works is. the tuner got the Greddy to get a good balance with the Stock ECU. When i unplug the battery and start again the tuner said it will take a fair few miles before it becomes balanced again and might run rough.mercutio wrote:i honestly think you need to go full standalone buddy it sounds like the ecu is fighting with the greddy as modern engines and ecu's always lean out if your driving along and take your foot off the throttle the engine uses almost no fuel at all so it would make sense that the ratios would lean out until you touched the throttle again
Also if it does sway the tune said we can change the stock o2 sensor to a modifyed one so it fools the stock ECU into thinking the engine is running perfect fuel ratios all the time and let the greddy do everything else via my wideband.
When I changed to the Apexi power fc i got an AEM wideband and replaced the original stock one with the UEGO sensor, then fed the narrow band output straight into the ECU for much more accurate o2 readings compared to the stock narrow-band.
only problem is the ECU needs to see the heater wire so the sensor is running separately just to keep the heater wire on and stopping the ecu going into limp home mode....but it isn't in the exhaust.
as for the AFR's in the 20's, that sounds crazy-crazy lean

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AFR's jumping above 18.x when letting off the throttle is normal. When i'm driving at higher speeds, I either keep my foot on the gas enough at a specific speed to keep an afr of 14.x or shift to neutral and coast.
Continuously letting it lean out isn't a great thing. I dip down to 11's on WOT. On crusing i'm between 14 and low 15's
For me, boost doesn't start until around 3k
Something myself and my tuner have noticed, my car doesn't lose boost during vtec. It holds 7psi to redline.
Continuously letting it lean out isn't a great thing. I dip down to 11's on WOT. On crusing i'm between 14 and low 15's
For me, boost doesn't start until around 3k
Something myself and my tuner have noticed, my car doesn't lose boost during vtec. It holds 7psi to redline.
- ddoubledanny
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