ECU set up?

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:16 pm

Oh Merlin, I expected better from you.

Post by **Merlin** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:24 pm

I have never tuned a 5th gen. Damn 5th gens! Get me.. All 4th genner

I did say to him that someone else will be able to tell him better.

So when putting an OBDI ECU in a 5th gen all that is needed is a converter harness and that is it?

Post by **Lude-dude** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:37 pm

OBD2a harness I think

because 2 types of OBD2... OBD2A & OBD2B

but yeah harness works fine, thought I might have problems with the immobiliser, but nope all good

immobiliser probably don't work anymore but I'm not worried

if you change the intake and then the throttle body bear in mind you will lose the FITV

makes cold starts a little struggle, but just need to hold the idle

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:41 pm

As far as my knowledge exists yes, obviously dependent on which tuning option you go with. Perhaps its the likes of 'chipped' tunes like Crome, etc that causes problems?

All the stuff I've ever read about dizzy, crank sensors, injectors, wiring, etc have been when people are engine swapping - ATR / H22A8's into 4th gens and JDM H22As into 5th gens. Even then its simple enough, there are usually a couple of options to swap parts around or do some rewiring.

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:41 pm

Bingo!

Yeah, that harness I linked him too on H-Tune is OBD2a - all 5th gens are.

Good point on the FITV loss.

Therealjj91 · Post by **Therealjj91** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 6:53 pm

Awesome guys! You've just made my day

and so even though my block code is BBBB I still need a OBD2a and not the OBD2b?

Post by **Merlin** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:34 pm

Your block code is in reference to the diameter of the pistons rather than the OBD type.

Ted · Post by **Ted** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:18 pm

Merlin wrote:

Have you read up on OBDII -> OBDI converter harnesses?

I have one of those hanging around somewhere. And does ste still have his hondata 300 available. Dont think he comes on here now but i can fb him

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:51 pm

There you go /\

As for Ste's S300, I think it sold on FB, but worth a message.

As stated above the OBD1 and 2 types are simply:

4th gens: OBD1 = Engines: H22A and H22A2
5th gens: OBD2a = Engines: H22A4, 5, 7, 8

The bbbb and aaaa codes as mentioned us just different variations of piston size combinations in each engine from the factory - so apart from changing the pistons for say ATR items it's merely a case of change for the right a's and b's combination or as PA said in another post new rings and careful Piston to wall clearances.

Cutz · Post by **Cutz** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:28 pm

Merlin wrote:There is the P30 as well.

The P28 and P30 do not natively have the ability to control IAB's (the butterfly values in the OEM intake manifold) whereas the P72 does. You can get the P28/P30 modded to control IAB's, for example HTune will do this for you, but you only need this of you are using the OEM intake manifold (but it is not essential as you can change the vacuum hoses to have IAB's open at all times). If you have a single runner ATR or Skunk2 IM you can use a p28/P30 without issue, this is what I have.

The Honda S300 is regarded as the best tuning packing for our engines but that is not to say others will not do the job. You need to first find a local tuner and see what tuning packages they are able to work with.

IMO never drive the car untuned on a basemap, if you have to move the car keep it at low RPM.

P28 with Hondata S300 - http://h-tune.co.uk/hondata-s300-v3-p28 ... ckage.html

Expect to pay in the region of £300 for a tuning session.

****a note on the P72****

don't forget that the P72 ECU came from an integra with reversed polarity IAB control....

I found this out as when I first installed my carefully selected P72 and then revved the engine to the point the IAB's activated and then proceeded to fry a hole in the IAB circuit of my ECU...not cool.

essentially all you need to do is swap positive to negative on the activation circuit from the ECU, 5 minute job.