Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.

>>> Click Here For Profile <<<

Image

newbie

New member? Introduce yourself here!
User avatar
dodger_4Glude
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:45 pm
My Generation: 4G

Re: newbie

Post by dodger_4Glude » Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:47 pm

I have done all the rust and dents so it quite fresh just poxy stone chip lol... Oh really lol... I would be happy with between 200 and 250bhp

User avatar
Drax
Moderator
Posts: 6342
Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2010 4:05 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: Wrexham, North Wales
Has thanked: 24 times
Been thanked: 431 times

Post by Drax » Fri Jul 31, 2015 9:31 am

dodger_4Glude wrote:I have done all the rust and dents so it quite fresh just poxy stone chip lol... Oh really lol... I would be happy with between 200 and 250bhp
im very glad you have sorted the rust first matey, important job :geek:

250bhp aim wise, I wrote this down for a few people as its a reasonably common request if it helps :)
HEAD
atr/type s/h22a8 cams £80-120
head mild polish £200-500

BOTTOM END
atr/type s/h22a8 pistons £80-120
new piston rings £50
new head gasket £35-80

INLET
atr inlet mani £100-150
inlet port match to h22 head (unless a7) £20-80
bigger tb (no more than 68mm) £80-250
inlet mani port matched to tb £80-120
good air intake (AEM, Type S, CDA etc.) £100-200

EXHAUST
Fuji/Mugen manifold £200-350
decat pipe £20-50
2.25/2.5" piping cat back exhaust £300-600 (depending if you choose mild steel or stainless)

FUEL & ECU
hondata & p28/p30/p72 £350-450
uprated 255 fuel pump £40

TUNING
remap (& on vpower) £300

general lightening of the car FREE
labour to do some of the work depends how much you can do yourself or need to pay someone


total around £2k minimum - with no labour included

this list doesn't include any other gaskets and seals you may need along the way.
id say that would get you 250bhp :) im sure the Lude gods will correct any mistakes of mine lol
any more than 250bhp and you will need uprated fuel injectors, cams, cam gears, valve springs, retainers, arp studs, much better clutch blah blah large amounts of cash!!
2.2 JDM DOHC SI-VTEC LSD TCS 4WS ABS BB1 MANUAL 1992
Image
FOR PAUL

User avatar
RebekahClydesdale
Posts: 195
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:53 pm
My Generation: 5G
Location: Aberdeen

Re: newbie

Post by RebekahClydesdale » Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:56 am

dodger_4Glude wrote:I have done all the rust and dents so it quite fresh just poxy stone chip lol... Oh really lol... I would be happy with between 200 and 250bhp
What rust have you been sorting? I have just cut out my rear arch, any tips would be handy :)

User avatar
dodger_4Glude
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:45 pm
My Generation: 4G

Re: newbie

Post by dodger_4Glude » Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:37 am

Before you weld in your new onces check the inner arch for rust cause mine was full of it.. if ya dont get rid now it will come back on ya new arches.. better to take longer and do it right than rush it and then have to do it again in 6 months time... When you have finished it... Use plenty of wax oil inside the panels everywere you can get and make sure you body schults all underneath the arches aswell... Before you weld it all together make sure you sure some weld through primer cause their is no bare metal underneath.. good luck :-)

User avatar
RebekahClydesdale
Posts: 195
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:53 pm
My Generation: 5G
Location: Aberdeen

Re: newbie

Post by RebekahClydesdale » Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:15 am

Iv cut my whole inner arch out. I don't have replacement ones so just going to have to fab something up myself.
Haha thanks il need it. It's the painting that I'm going to make an arse of I think!

User avatar
dodger_4Glude
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:45 pm
My Generation: 4G

Re: newbie

Post by dodger_4Glude » Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:53 am

Painting it the easy part lol

User avatar
RebekahClydesdale
Posts: 195
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:53 pm
My Generation: 5G
Location: Aberdeen

Post by RebekahClydesdale » Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:41 am

Really? I'm not sure weather to do the whole quarter or just up to the fold on it and mask it.

User avatar
bb1boy
Posts: 4459
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:57 am
My Generation: 4G
XBOX GamerTag: adam fantastic

Post by bb1boy » Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:48 am

RebekahClydesdale wrote:Really? I'm not sure weather to do the whole quarter or just up to the fold on it and mask it.
Sounds like a question for Ratman..

@RattyMcClelland
Image

User avatar
dodger_4Glude
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:45 pm
My Generation: 4G

Re: newbie

Post by dodger_4Glude » Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:03 am

Defo whole quarter... Can go wrong so easy if you go half up and i wont cost much more or take any longer

User avatar
RattyMcClelland
Moderator
Posts: 9208
Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:02 pm
My Generation: 5G
PSN GamerTag: RattyMcClelland
Location: Leicestershire
Been thanked: 203 times

Post by RattyMcClelland » Wed Aug 05, 2015 1:27 pm

RebekahClydesdale wrote:Really? I'm not sure weather to do the whole quarter or just up to the fold on it and mask it.
Prime all the area you welded and sanded. Key the whole rear quarter panel up to the swage line in the middle of the panel. Make sure all the nuts and crannies are keys.

Decrease.

Mask the car up and use soft edge masking tape across the swage line so when you lacquer it produces a nice soft edge that will polish out.

Colour gets blended across the wing until it's seamless.

Relacquer the whole panel up to the swage line.

I'll try and get an example uploaded for you.
Image

Post Reply

Return to “New Members”