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Clutch shudder when pulling the clutch out to biting point?

Engine/Gearbox questions and discussion
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Lankysod07
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Clutch shudder when pulling the clutch out to biting point?

Post by Lankysod07 » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:22 am

Hello all,

So last night I was driving back home, pulled up to my front gate which is on a hill. Stuck the handbrake up being lazy and noticed that when i start releasing the clutch back up to hit the biting point the car shudders...

Its not a major amount but enough for me to worry about it, I tried it again on flat ground and it was the same. Just when I hit the biting point?? :?

Its barely noticable when driving but i think its still there.

Anyways I left it over night and drove to work this morning, tried it again and it seems to be gone...poss intermittent?

Ive read through @preludemanh22 recent post and there are similarites, I havent changed any wheels or anything as of late. My 5th synchro is on its way out as it crunches and first gear it hard to select when coming down the gears (Thought this was normal tho).

I had a little research and saw that this could be a flywheel needing skimming, possible clutch plate going?

What do you guys reckon?

Im having my new M2P4 put in this wheel with whats pretty much a new clutch going in, so Im not too worried but thought I would run it by you guys first....

Cheers in advance! 8-)

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Merlin
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Post by Merlin » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:24 am

It could simply be that your clutch is worn and it is beginning to slip intermittently. Or you could have an oil leak that is getting on to the clutch plate, I have had this too.
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Post by mercutio » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:27 am

this^^^^^^ if it carries on after the clutch and gearbox change then start to worry
bristol_bb4 wrote:ahhh a 5th gen, i love 5th gens :D :lol:
Dino wrote:I loves the 5th gen really.... just dont quote me on it... ;)
4thgenphil wrote:Mines 4 1/4 unches mate, sorry

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Post by preludemanh22 » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:33 am

mine was hard to get in first when coming back down the box aswell

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Post by Merlin » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:40 am

If you are finding it hard to go down the gears that does point to clutch disengagement issues and not syncro etc...

With syncro's it is hard to change gear going up but coming down should be fine. I have broken the 5th gear syncro on my 4th gen bear box. It grinds into 5th at high rpm but is smooth coming down into 4th.

When I had pressure plate separation (where the clutch is not properly making contact) I struggled to get it into gear sometimes. Also the gearbox went knotchy in all gears. Shown right at the beginning of this vid:

[youtube]dMYY6SDAlDk[/youtube]
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Post by newkid » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:44 am

Check your fluid level. Had this twice now. Usually clutch but first time slave second time master cylinder. Both replaced an working again as it should.

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Post by Lankysod07 » Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:27 am

It's just first gear that's sometimes hard to put in, when in heavy traffic coming down from second just generally coming down all gears it fine! 5th synchro is the same as your mentioned merlin, crunching in high rpm, especially coming off the off ramp onto the motorway!

I'm gonna have to keep on eye in this me thinks and see what the new box does!

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Post by preludemanh22 » Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:31 am

I want a fresh built m2b4 :twisted:

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Post by Merlin » Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:37 am

The M2B4 is not all that, its viscous diff is very reactive rather than proactive. The only time it is of any use is when one wheel is spinning in great excess than the other. So by the time the viscous diff reacts and begins to manage the difference in wheel rotation speeds, a torsen or clutch pack diff would have done it already. The M2B4 also cannot torque split, which is what any good diff should be able to do.
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Post by Lankysod07 » Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:54 am

The M2P4 any good then?

Cheers for the advise btw guys much appreciated, I was told the clutch in this car was brand new start of last year..but got told it was an accord one peice clutch was put it as it was cheaper...

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