Merlin's 4G Time Attack Lude

[newkid]

Aren't all UK 4ths abs? Could be why you can't find non abs here.

[Merlin]

Yeah they are but there are other Honda's that use the non-ABS part. According to what I have seen on the net while hunting for them, the Lude 3rd gen, Lude 4th gen, Accord 5th gen all use the same CV joint and there are UK non-ABS versions of these.

[njord]

As like gb-lude said u can just knock/cut the abs ring off

[Merlin]

Another step forward was taken at the weekend, we finally got the new timing belts and the H23 manual tensioner on Not that it is a huge job its just one of those jobs I seem to keep putting off.

First up I replaced the oil cooler o-ring and put on a new filter


Big thanks to Vanzep and Steve for their help, especially with getting the belt back on. I used a Honda OEM timing belt, Gates balance shaft belt and the H23 manual tensioner conversion with OEM parts.

I obviously had the crank pulley off to do the timing belt but like a noob I didn't put the crank key back in place, so when I went to move the crank to TDC I span the crank but the cams didn't move. So I lost the engine timing .

So it was a bit of a job to get the crank and the two pulleys that sit over it back into alignment then I put the key in place, set the crank to TDC1 with the help of a big crew driver in cylinder 1. Then with the belt off, set the cams to TDC1 and lock them in place.

The H23 tensioner write up that is in the wiki that links to Prelude Power is pish. It leaves out steps and it is in the wrong order, I'm going to write a better one. http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... 18247.html

H23 manual conversion in place

[Merlin]

Took a big step in the right direction at the weekend. Vanzep was giving me a hand to get the engine back together when we discovered that the paint I have bought looked jobby, so the only thing to do was to build the engine back up unpainted. I don't have the extra week needed to get new paint and paint the engine.

Saturday was a fun day bolting everything back together. I must have used over half a tube of Hondabond.

New Hondata intake manifold gasket. Expensive, yes but not a problem for a reusable gasket that is easy to clean.



Hondabonded on both sides.



A new sump gasket, a step up in the world! This one cost £7, the last one was only £3.



The rest of the engine going back together. Since it isn't painted this engine is not going to be a looker, just clean and functional

5th gen engine, 4th gen injectors, 5the gen fuel rail, 4th gen engine loom.







Re-routed coolant hoses for the FITV delete

[mercutio]

good work buddy

[vtectom]

I looked for ages for a cheap sump gasket & cheapest I found was £15!

[Merlin]

Many thanks.

I need to replace my distributor At the weekend I took the dizzy cap off to have a look at it as I have never opened it before. It is at least the 4th engine that this dizzy has been on. As expected the terminals were fuzzy with corrosion and the rotor arm didn't look great, so new ones were needed.



While putting the dizzy cap back on and tightening the last bolt I snapped the funcker I felt like I didn't even put any torque thought it and it snapped . So while trying to drill the bolt we needed a bit more room so we wanted to take the internal cover off the dizzy but that meant removing the rotor arm. The rotor arm screw was very tight, which worried me. The rotor arm would not come off, it was completely rusted in place. Since there are other bits that can be reused in the dizzy I lost the rag and destroyed it

[indigolemon]

I hope you were sent to the naughty step to think about what you did!

Had the exact same experience trying to remove the rotor arm on mine, had to batter it with penetrating oil and leave it for ages

[Merlin]

Ha ha!! @indigolemon do you by any chance have a valve clearance jam nut tool? Steve though you might have one?



Also I noticed weird writing on my cam holders