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Low Fuel Warning Light not working
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Low Fuel Warning Light not working
Gents,
Over the last few months the cars low fuel warning light has stopped working.
I assumed it may have something to do with the recent fuel leak as the fuel pressure may have changed. Now that is fixed the problem is still there. Its not a big issue, but I would prefer to have it sorted.
Is this a sensor issue, or is it as simple as a fuse being changed? Or something else?
Thanks in advance for the advice
Ranj
Over the last few months the cars low fuel warning light has stopped working.
I assumed it may have something to do with the recent fuel leak as the fuel pressure may have changed. Now that is fixed the problem is still there. Its not a big issue, but I would prefer to have it sorted.
Is this a sensor issue, or is it as simple as a fuse being changed? Or something else?
Thanks in advance for the advice
Ranj
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!
H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red
H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red
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id be curious to know aswell, i noticed it behaves differently between my old lude and my new one.
id hazard a guess that the light may be driven in an entirely analogue fashion off of the needle position? Wouldn't make sense for the sender to have a separate line just for that, and the gauge takes care of the smoothing out operation (rather than ecu or fancy electronics).
My old lude used to have a fairly sluggish light, it would come on quite dim at first, go off, then come on quicker/stronger. This suggests crud build up on whatever analogue switch contacts are in the dial.
The new lude seems to do away with any dimness, and seems to come on strong, and stay on (excluding long ascents/descents).
Perhaps the schematic could confirm - but i'm guessing its controlled by the cluster/dial itself.
id hazard a guess that the light may be driven in an entirely analogue fashion off of the needle position? Wouldn't make sense for the sender to have a separate line just for that, and the gauge takes care of the smoothing out operation (rather than ecu or fancy electronics).
My old lude used to have a fairly sluggish light, it would come on quite dim at first, go off, then come on quicker/stronger. This suggests crud build up on whatever analogue switch contacts are in the dial.
The new lude seems to do away with any dimness, and seems to come on strong, and stay on (excluding long ascents/descents).
Perhaps the schematic could confirm - but i'm guessing its controlled by the cluster/dial itself.
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
'21 'e' Advance
'21 'e' Advance
- indigolemon
- The Chaos Engine
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- Contact:
The coming on dim, fading, coming back etc - that is down to the way you drive the car. Knock it's pan in and you'll get a nice solid light as you're eating the dinosaur juice. Drive a bit more conservatively, and you're treated to a fading in and out. All my ludes had the slow fade in and out at first, changing to solid as the tank emptied.
My best guess is the light is related to the number of miles left, which in turn is related to how much of a caning you gave the car.
My best guess is the light is related to the number of miles left, which in turn is related to how much of a caning you gave the car.
'On two occasions I have been asked, 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.' - Charles Babbage
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I filled the car up a few weeks back and managed to put 57 litres of fuel into when the capacity is 55.
The light definitely isn't working at all, I normally let it get down to the light and then fill up again. I don't do 20 quid etc so its normally just a straight tank it, use it, and replace it lol.
Like I mentioned earlier the problem in itself is quite small, I would rather it be sorted because its doing my head in lol
The light definitely isn't working at all, I normally let it get down to the light and then fill up again. I don't do 20 quid etc so its normally just a straight tank it, use it, and replace it lol.
Like I mentioned earlier the problem in itself is quite small, I would rather it be sorted because its doing my head in lol
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!
H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red
H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red
- Merlin
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Yes all H22's have an oil pressure sensor and warning light, although they are useless. H22's need 10 psi at idle however the warning light only comes on at 6 psi, meaning if the light comes on damage is already being done to the engine.Max wrote:Also notice there is a low oil pressure warning light in the manual, should I have this on the Type S?