Wheel refurbishment - Now with pics

[Scott560]

So I've sent my motegi wheels off to be sandblasted, looks like they have paint on top of paint and quite a few scuffs.

Once blasted I'll need to repair some of the scuffs with some kind of filler. What's the best stuff to use?

The last set I did were many years ago (MK1 MR2 3spokes) and I painted them with a rattle can and they turned out ok. These days I have a compressor so is it worth trying to paint them with a gun?

Also, is there an official colour for the prelude 17inch wheels? Last time I bought something with waaaay too much silver flake which made them look a bit ridiculous lol.

Thanks in advance. Now the summer is here i can spend some time and money on the lude.

Thanks in advance!


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[RattyMcClelland]

Any filler will do but definately use a spray gun and 2k lacquer.

Colour...i use Honda Stout Silver NH-75m for OEM wheels. Matches well.

[Scott560]

Best place to buy this stuff from? Cheap gun recommendations? I have a motegi kit that will need respraying also so might aswell buy the tools needed now.

Guessing itll need some primer too to check the filler is smooth etc. What's the rule on painting the inside of the wheel (part where the tyre sits).

Cheers for the advice!

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[Scott560]

Holy thread revival.

So I finally got to:

pick up my wheels
file down the rough edges
fill in the scratches/kerb marks

almost finish repairing the motegi side skirt and front lip.

Quite enjoyed fixing up the sideskirt - it was cracked along the edge, so it was slightly deformed. Used a dremel to melt the plastic from the inside, so it would hold its form. Then I back filled it with some fibre glass / resin / hardener and its now pretty solid and not too much filler needed on the outside.

Same with the front lip, it hard started to crack right in the middle, some process to reinforce it...

so next comes painting - but wondering where to get all these bits and pieces online?

[tom023]

Regarding painting where the tyre sits: there's no real need to, it's not a part that is seen at all, i would save the paint and put some extra coats on the wheel face as it needs to be as durable as possible.
Be careful to let the paint dry properly around the lip of the wheel where the tyre bead seals before fitting tyres. If the paint is not fully cured it can flake with the force of the tyre rubbing it when fitting and then create an air leak where the flake is caught between the bead and the wheel lip.

[Scott560]

Any filler will do but definately use a spray gun and 2k lacquer.

Colour...i use Honda Stout Silver NH-75m for OEM wheels. Matches well.

wheels all done and very smooth now, ready for paint after a quick rub done.

Complete paint novice here -
1k is 1 'part' , essentially dries in air - naff?
2k is 2 'part' , like an epoxy resin, mix some stuff together, then goes off in a set time and then its done (so only mix what you'll use that session?)

Is that true for primers? true for colour coat also? or just lacquer?

On the list of things to paint is:

4x motegi wheels + center caps
motegi body kit that has had some repair/filling/sanding already done (bit more needed to finesse the contour of that sideskirt).

Can I use the same primer for the wheels as the plastic body parts? etch primer?

Should be picking up a cheap DeVilbis gun tomorrow also courtesy of gumtree...

Searching online, i can't seem to find any retailers where the mystery of paints and stuff is demystified - I'm guessing its not a mass market product and you gotta go to those industrial estates and talk the lingo to get it? I need some B91M , but can only seem to find touch up or aerosol cans onlines.

Sorry for all the Q's, but would like to give it a go myself rather than just drop it all off somewhere, simply because of time (hassle to organise anything with anyone, no one replies to emails etc)

Cheers,

Scott

[RattyMcClelland]

Yes 1k mean one component 2k is 2 component.
You can use the same primer on wheels as bodywork. 2k primer will be harder, have thicker build and grip better. Only use etch primer on bare aluminium parts, if not don't use it.

You can get 2k base coat paints but not really needed today. Just 1k base of fine as you will finish with a 2k lacquer. Only use 2k lacquer, thin it with paint thinner if it's to thick.

For your wheel paint go here.
https://www.wheelpaints.co.uk/CAR-MANUF ... A-H/Honda/
You can get lacquer off there too. Get some paint thinner to wash your gun out thoroughly.

[Scott560]

saw this post aswell lol - can see ill probably get the same issue if i try to paint my motegi kit...

https://www.preludepower.com/forums/sho ... p?t=360410

[Scott560]

Right, ordered a load of stuff. Paint websites are all shyte, end of. That wheelpaints one is about the worst, reminds me of using the internet 10 years ago at least...

so from carpaintwarehouse i got:
sunox 2k etch primer with activator - for the bare aluminium wheels.
sunox 2k high fill primer with activator (for the body kit and center caps).
sunox 2k acrylic lacquer.
mask

from wheelpaints:
honda standard silver - 1ltr solvent based - assume this is a 1k basecoat?
thinners (noticed you can get thinners with activator/hardeners?) either way this is just basic thinners for cleaning and thinning the basecoat a little if required...

Just need to get some colour matched crystal blue metallic , send off my petrol flap to somewhere online and end up hopefully with a pot that matches - otherwise it'll look stupid.

lets hope for some decent weather in the next few weekends and see how it goes...

[Scott560]

This is going well so far.

Set up a large gazebo in the garden to keep off insects and stop the smell drifting into the neighbors open windows.

Unexpected surprise when i opened up the 2k etch primer - it was florescent yellow. Was worried it might have been the wrong stuff, but turns out that's right.

Etch primer went on very thin and see through, used the cheap gun where the nozzle was too big (1.5mm) and the paint too thin, so it went on a little heavy in places. Still, overnight the paint shrank and the runs had all but disappeared. 2 coats and it seems to have covered well.

Last night i chipped off the couple of imperfections i hadn't spotted, and then put on 2 coats of the 2k high build primer. This time I used the better gun (1.3mm devilbiss cheap one) and took a little more time to set up the pressure and the fan and the feed (or whatever the term is) and spent longer applying thinner coats. Much happier with the results, and had a much better experience. wheels painted inside and out and around the bead area.

Will do a tiny bit of sanding/filling before one last coat of primer, and need to put a heavy coat on the wheel center since the plastic was quite un-smooth from the light sandblasting.

as for the paint from wheelpaints , no instructions on the solvent basecoat of 'standard Honda silver' so god knows how that has to go on. If its thin ill use it as is. If its a bit thick, 10/20% thinners perhaps? There is nothing on the website to say if its 1k paint or not?

Mask was a good investment, but still end up with a sore throat - need to get it on quicker and reduce exposure time...

end conclusion - pay someone else to do it lol.