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Lude bogging down after the dizzy change

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Free Ranj Egg
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Lude bogging down after the dizzy change

Post by Free Ranj Egg » Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:09 am

Gents,

I got the dizzy changed yesterday and the engine management light is off and the car engages vtec fine. However when I picked the car up and took it for a drive, it was very hesitant and wouldn't shift like it normally does.

I waited for it to warm up before giving it the beans and it seems to be bogging down. I have had a look online and apparently the dizzy change can knock out the timing by a tooth? Is this the case?

Other things that have recently been changed on the car is the spark plugs, the fuel filter has been replaced, the leads are probably about 60k mileage old.

The car seemed to be fine before the dizzy was changed? Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Ranj
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Post by vanzep » Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:18 am

it will most likely be the dizzy -if you put the old one back in you should know for sure ;)
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Post by Merlin » Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:23 am

Was the ignition timing set correctly after the dizzy was swapped? If the service connector wasn't jumped before timing was adjusted it hasn't been done properly. See here http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... 11854.html

The Dizzy is on the other end of the cam shaft from all the mechanical timing bits (where all the belts are) and the dizzy can only go on the end of the cam one way. So it can't be that.

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Post by Scott560 » Thu Aug 16, 2018 9:27 am

When replacing the distributor , its very important to recheck the 'base ignition timing' by using a timing light.

You can see that the Dizzy can pivot around its shaft, effectively you are moving the cam/crank sensors with respect to the actual position of the engine rotation.

That is to say, the ECU doesn't know what the real timing is, as it can be offset by twisting the dizzy. You cannot just plonk a new one in and be happy - thats terrible. Cambelt where, head height etc can all affect the timing, so it must be reset after any work to these areas.

To set the static ignition timing (off the top of my head, been a while since i checked mine)

0) start and warm up the car, shut it off.
1) loosen 2 of the dizzy nuts off completely, leave the top one slightly stiff
2) bridge the service connector under the dash area (the one to look at error codes), keep it bridged, fire up the car.
3) remove the little black rubber bung on the crank case/bell housing (by the engine number fron tof block)
4) use a timing strobe light , triggered by spark plug number 1 (the one closest to the dizzy at the 'front' of the engine (left side)
5) with the engine warmed up and running a static ignition (by virtue of the jumper wire):
6) shine timing light strobe into the void to view the flywheel - it has a white mark.
7) twist the dizzy by tapping it gently with your ratchet to gently move it around (either backwards or forward)
8) observe the white mark on the flywheel moving with respect to the dizzy moving (changing the static timing essentially)
9) align the white mark on the flywheel with the little indicator arm visible through the window - be sure to be looking at it dead on
10) once static timing is set with the mark, tighten up the dizzy, remove service wire, restart engine and go for a drive.

it might take a while for a change in the ignition timing to trim up any fueling adjustments, so you might feel slightly 'adjustments' as you are low/part throttle/normal driving (like on a shyte fairground ride where they notch up the power on those massive mechanical switches). Eventually it will settle down after a tank of petrol or so...
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Post by Free Ranj Egg » Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:34 am

Cheers gents. I will take it back to the mechanic with this information and see what he has to say.
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!

H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red

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Post by Free Ranj Egg » Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:35 am

Is it worth me driving it round for a few more days and see if things change?
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!

H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red

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Post by Scott560 » Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:03 am

no - if it wasn't set properly, the timing will be all wrong.

If they didn't bridge the connector, and use a timing gun on it - its wrong, end of.

I have a timing gun depending on where you are - it was cheap from ebay <£20 but gets the job done. Only takes a few minutes to do. I'm near oxford if your local...
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Post by Max » Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:06 am

What he said ^^ im in Cheltenham if it helps.

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Post by Free Ranj Egg » Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:15 am

I'm in Birmingham bud so its a bit of a distance. If its only a few minutes work I will take it back to the mechanic on Saturday. If that fails I may take you up on your offer.

I just don't want to be driving the car long distance. In the mean time is it ok to use for short trips.
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!

H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red

Free Ranj Egg
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:11 pm
My Generation: 5G

Post by Free Ranj Egg » Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:29 am

scott560 - I may need to take you up on your offer mate. Spoke to the mechanic and he said he doesn't have a timing gun. He basically said take it to a Honda specialist.

If the car is good to drive at a lowish speed I can bring it up on Saturday morning if you are free. PM me a cost as well bud.
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!

H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red

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