Scott560 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 07, 2020 5:09 pm
Worth ruling out the basics first.
1) does the fuel pump prime - plenty of fresh fuel in there? You should be able to hear it on ignition on and also in the engine bay.
2) you cant really test the crank sensor with a continuity tester or multimeter whilst cranking.
3) When cranking, can you hear compression, eg , does the engine labour to turn over with the distinctive 'whomp' sound, or does it just whir lifelessly like a kitchen mixer?
4) Now you have the dizzy cap off - check that it rotates when you crank , just to confirm your cambelt didn't snap.
if you remove the rotor arm (fat crosshead screw), and remove the spark shield, you can check:
1) connections to the coil. Disconnect the multiplug, and check you have continuity to the 2 small screw terminals on the coil block. Ive seen the screw terminals brake.
For the love of god don't lose that spring!
2) You can check for continuity in the various position sensors when its disconnected from the ECU. I'm not sure the resistance, but there should be some. If its open circuit then one of the position sensors is gone. Only a broken crank sensor should prevent starting.
If all that checks OK, then most likely the ignitor module.
I have seen ropey contacts in a distributor cause a car not to start when warm (would start fine when cold always, idle strong etc, but as the car warmed up, condensation in the dizzy cap killed the spark). The central electrode in the dizzy cap was scarcely present...
I probably have a spare coil, dizzy housing, unsure about the crank sensor. Not sure about igniter - is it in the dizzy?