Body shop required

A1ex · Post by **A1ex** » Fri May 25, 2012 9:16 pm

Looks pretty good to me

I might go to a body shop with some carbon - kevlar weave and see if they'll use that for the work

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Fri May 25, 2012 9:56 pm

Holy texture batman. Did they not wetsand it back at all.
I can get a better finish than that out of my tiny sprayguns.
The arch work looks good though apart from the lacquer. Its very difficult to get filler smooth and iv yet to do it.
Also dont apply ANY wax on the paint work for at least 2 months. Wax will seal in the solvents taht are trying to escape. and bugger it up eventually.

wchestnutt · Post by **wchestnutt** » Fri May 25, 2012 10:02 pm

RattyMcClelland wrote:Holy texture batman. Did they not wetsand it back at all.
I can get a better finish than that out of my tiny sprayguns.
The arch work looks good though apart from the lacquer. Its very difficult to get filler smooth and iv yet to do it.
Also dont apply ANY wax on the paint work for at least 2 months. Wax will seal in the solvents taht are trying to escape. and bugger it up eventually.

Yeah, the texturing is on the left side only I think which was the worst hit by the rust. It is a shame but still better than having rust bubbles I guess... Shall I still wax seal the underneath or not go anyweher near it yet?.

... At the end of the day it was a £200 job when any other quote I was getting was £1000+! so being a poor man i ill have to accept it.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Fri May 25, 2012 10:46 pm

Wetsanding and polishing only adds 30mins onto a job. Its the lacquer they rub back so its flat.

You can underseal fine. You can polish too but dont use a sealer wax like a carnuba wax.

wchestnutt · Post by **wchestnutt** » Fri May 25, 2012 10:55 pm

hmm yeah to be honest I was expecting a smoother finish. blegh it is done now. And the other arch is smooth as ass (a fine ass) so maybe he got bored by the second one....

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Fri May 25, 2012 11:00 pm

Well you can wet sand it yourself if you have a machine polisher, cutting compound and a cutting pad. 1500 wet&dry and alot of polishing.

wchestnutt · Post by **wchestnutt** » Fri May 25, 2012 11:01 pm

Won't it need a respray after that?..

ps. Sorry for a complete thread hijack :p

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Fri May 25, 2012 11:23 pm

No.
Once the lacquer has been applied and properly cured it is then wet sanded back and polished up. If you went sanded like Nitin masterbates then you will cut through the lacquer and onto the paint and will need a respray.
I always wet sand after a repair. I wet sand until the texture is out which you can see when dry from sanding. Once flat i polish it using a DA until mirror finish.
Its easier to polish up on new paintwork as the lacquer is still soft for a few months. It harder to polish on old OEM paint as its hard and just takes alot longer to polish out.

wchestnutt · Post by **wchestnutt** » Fri May 25, 2012 11:33 pm

Bahaha. Ok then I will keep this noted, if I get a chance over the next week I will give it a try.. Does it have to be machined or can you do this by hand? - not sure I have any friends with a machine sander.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Fri May 25, 2012 11:59 pm

You NEED a machine polisher, cutting foam and cutting compound like G3. Also you need experience using one or you will burn through easily and keep the panel wet so it stays cool. And not polish in direct sunlight as the panel will be close to 60degrees and guarantee you will burn though in seconds.