Push start helpppp

Danni22 · Post by **Danni22** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:47 pm

Thanks buddy, I'm trying to do it as simply as I can, how could I use switch to power the rest and just have the push start on a constant feed as its having a battery kill switch for when it's not being ran

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:53 pm

Based on the above diagram

Everything in the red box is your current panel and relay, with the lamp only illuminated when power to the the start button is live.

Post by **4thgenphil** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:58 pm

looks a ball ache to me!

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:01 pm

Well, you are the king of achey balls, so you're best to make that judgement.

The diagram above is designed to immitate the way the original ignition key switch works. Honda designed it so that the ACC and IGN1 circuits disconnect while cranking, there must be a reason for this, and as best practice I have included the extra 2 relays to accomplish this.

Danni22 · Post by **Danni22** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:02 pm

Is there not a more simple way of doing it? Ie bridge the wires in the ignition wiring as put a switch in it?? All the wiring is still there, iv just got rid of the barrel

Iv been told that if I just wire in the push started and use the switch to act as the bridge that would of been the first turn of the key

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:13 pm

In theory you can, but I don't know what consequences this might have.

It depends who told you - do they know what they're talking about, or have they just wired something in before and it happened to work?

I'm no expert (hence why I'm asking my dad to confirm) but I know enough to know what's safe and what's not.

After all the work you've put into the car, do you want to risk it all for the sake of £15 worth of relays and cable and an hour of your time to wire it in properly?

Danni22 · Post by **Danni22** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:16 pm

The lad that has told me defiantly has some gen on it he just sent me this

""
This is how I would wire it

But if you want to isolate the YEL & WHT/BLK wires as the original ignition switch would do then wire it like this

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:27 pm

It's up to you buddy. Personally I wouldn't do it like that and take the risk.

I can see where he's coming from, and in an ideal world he is right.

Look at it this way, go and count the values of all the fuses from the interior fuse box, then add them together. Worst case scenario, can you single toggle switch handle this amount of current?!

This is the way you HAVE to look at it if being sensible.

Danni22 · Post by **Danni22** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:31 pm

That's a fair point, but iv got nothing really in the flex box anymore, just front wipers, headlights, indicators, radio, then the ecu and engine bay Fusebox.

Most of what was on the prelude wiring has now gone and fuses removed.

I'm not the best with this sort of wiring lol.. And I need to keep or simple..

I really don't have a clue what's best lol..

I

Post by **Gayno** » Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:48 pm

OK buddy, just got a revised diagram back from my dad. You'll be pleased to know I had majorly over complicated it!!

I'm just making it up now, but it contains just 3 relays!!