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Nathan's BA4 3rd Gen

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NafemanNathan
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Re: Nathan's BA4 3rd Gen

Post by NafemanNathan » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:46 pm

nucleustylzlude wrote: :scaredtoss:
:lol:

Have you by chance spoken to Ste about a certain thing for this car yet Rob?

That's not the car finished Sam :lol: He's yet to etch prime it all as well ;-) Have no fear :)

EDIT: Or the proper response ;-) ...

there's nothing wrong with the headlights so there's no need to high build them. when i rub down the high build primer, sometimes bare metal will be exposed, thats why prior to painting, i etch primer to ensure the bare metal gets protection before painting.

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rob quilter
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Post by rob quilter » Tue Apr 02, 2013 9:56 pm

:facepalm: :lol:
PERFORMANCE PARTS FOR JAPANESE CARS - http://WWW.TOKYOSQUAD.COM

FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK - http://WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/TOKYOSQUAD

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Post by honda-hardy » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:00 pm

ffs, i never said that was the finished article. i just didnt realise the car was in high build, fair enough if he is going over it again with primer then paint.

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Re: Nathan's BA4 3rd Gen

Post by NafemanNathan » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:03 pm

honda-hardy wrote:ffs, i never said that was the finished article.
I know you didn't ;-) :P

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Post by bristol_bb4 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:25 pm

NafemanNathan wrote:Have you by chance spoken to Ste about a certain thing for this car yet Rob?
answer - no :lol:

looking really good mate! will deffo have to put me in touch with this dude 8-)
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Post by RattyMcClelland » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:28 pm

The headlights dont need much anyway. Usually just needs scuffing up with 600+ grit paper for a good keya nd the paint over it. Not real need to rub it back and prime it when the base is fine how it is.

Different painters have different methods.
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7th Restoration Pics

Post by NafemanNathan » Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:14 pm

What Mike wrote:the high build primer was dry blocked with 320grit, then da'd with 500grit with a soft interface pad, then i wet flatted the whole car with 800grit wet and drypaper then handfinished with 2000grit abralon. the car has been cleaned up with degreaser. when its finished and the lacquer cured, any imperfections, (if any!!) will be flatted with 1500grit wet and dry, then 2000grit abralon and mopped with g3 compound, then change the mop head for a waffle head and g10 finishing compound then handwaxed with turtle wax, a total of 6 different clean microfibre cloths to avoid cross contamination.
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Do you know, I think I need to get me a second 3rd gen and have it in primer grey 8)

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Post by honda-hardy » Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:19 pm

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Post by RattyMcClelland » Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:20 pm

Id be very worried personally after reading that.

Hand sanded with 800 grit is fine but them 2000 abralon??? IM assuming this is before paint. 800 will be alot better key than 2000 abralon. I use abralon and 2000 is more like 3000. If after the paint and before the lacquer then fine.

Also finished with turtle wax :o Dont put any wax on a car until at LEAST 1 month after fresh paint. It will suffercate and bloom. Iv seen it happen countless of times with customers cars when iv told them not to wax it.

But so far so good.
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Re: Nathan's BA4 3rd Gen

Post by NafemanNathan » Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:03 am

I'm confident Mike knows what he's doing Ratty. He's got 16 years and I think he said around 1000 cars under his belt. As you said, different painters have different techniques. Before he even took on my car we had a discussion about me not polishing it for a good length of time after I have the car back, so I'm sure again Mike just does things differently to you. Also as said before, he's said he'll be etch priming it as well... He's a busy guy and I'm just glad his happy throwing emails together just to keep me informed, so I can easily understand him missing out the odd detail ;-)

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