Newkid's bb1, ATR inlet and new ecu p37

Post by **newkid** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:55 am

Merlin wrote:
Does your diff have a funny break in procedure? I wouldn't have thought it did. Even with the Kaaz you only need 4L for a break-in and a full refill. The Kaaz dumps a load of the diff clutch plate material in the fluid that needs swapped out immediately.

Honestly don't know. I need to do further reading into why they say 6 litres.

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:13 pm

Yeah I would. I think you will only need 4L, 2 for your brake in to remove any metal that it sheds (that is if it needs it), and 2L for your refill.

Post by **newkid** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:51 pm

@rattymcclelland you have one. You any ideas? Can't seem to find much.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:37 pm

No break in period. However paw recommended a break in procedure. More to do with the syncros.

"Once fitted to car and fluids filled obviously ensure car is in neutral on first start up. With all new synchros and fresh fluid you will find some drag through the gearbox which will spin the wheels (while in the air). Allow this to happen for a few minutes to allow the oil to circulate.
Once this is done, foot on brake and select 1st gear, release clutch and then build the revs a little before slowly going up and down through the gears to fully circulate the oils and help to start the bedding process of the carbon synchros.
Only needs a few minutes of this before the car is ready to drive. Again, first drive should be with synpathetic gear shifts to help break it all in."

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:05 pm

RattyMcClelland wrote:No break in period. However paw recommended a break in procedure. More to do with the syncros.

"Once fitted to car and fluids filled obviously ensure car is in neutral on first start up. With all new synchros and fresh fluid you will find some drag through the gearbox which will spin the wheels (while in the air). Allow this to happen for a few minutes to allow the oil to circulate.
Once this is done, foot on brake and select 1st gear, release clutch and then build the revs a little before slowly going up and down through the gears to fully circulate the oils and help to start the bedding process of the carbon synchros.
Only needs a few minutes of this before the car is ready to drive. Again, first drive should be with synpathetic gear shifts to help break it all in."

Nice! I'll be using that for breaking in my new carbon synchros at the weekend

Put it this way, there wont be any harm in swapping out the fluid after "breaking in". Especially if (like most of us) you'll not be replacing the fluid for a while. Its only an extra £20 for piece of mind (I have just bought Torco MTF as well

)

Post by **newkid** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:41 pm

So I'll only need 2 litres more? Bare in mind I'm not swapping out synchro.

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:53 pm

I have a had a hunt on the net about braking procedures for Torsen diffs and I think the general consensus is that you do not need to break in that diff. But! Like I say its only and extra £20 to have the piece of mind though doing a "break in", dumping that fluid and refilling with fresh fluid.

If you want to break in then you'll need two gearboxes worth, 4L.

Post by **newkid** » Mon Apr 25, 2016 6:37 pm

Been informed the gearbox will be ready for Wednesday

so got the car booked in as well, hopefully have it back by the weekend.

So on Wednesday this is whats all being fitted.

Greddy timing and balance belts
Manual tensioner conversion
Pipercross panel filter
NGK platinum plugs
Blox triple cam seal
Hamp shortie
Type-s cams
Blueprint rocker cover gasket
OEM spark plug seals
OEM crank seal
OEM cam seals
OEM balance shaft seal
OEM sump gasket seal
OEM distributor seal
OEM balance shaft retainer kit
Blueprint waterpump
Shell helix 10-40 oil
2 litres red coolant
Gates power steering belt
Gates alt belt
Mfactory sump/engine magnetic plugs
Blueprint rotor arm
Blueprint distributor cap

New gearbox with mfactory lsd, 4.64 final drive, new diff bearings
Kaiten flywheel
ATR clutch kit
2 litres torco mtf
ARP flywheel bolts
ARP pressure plate bolts
Blueprint inner cv boot
ES poly bushed rear mount

Valve clearances and distributor timing also being done.

Hope its worth it in the end

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Mon Apr 25, 2016 6:42 pm

Looking at that list I'm pretty sure it will be

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Apr 26, 2016 8:48 am

That is a load of stuff

I am sure you will like and notice the difference

Lude Generation

Newkid's bb1, ATR inlet and new ecu p37

Re: Newkid's bb1, end of April goals, p24

Re: Newkid's bb1, end of April goals, p24

Re: Newkid's bb1, end of April goals, p24

Cars booked in!