Drax's JUN Prelude: Papa Smurf edition

[Drax]

GAY

hey! you have your monster turbo supercharged pug to finish building first...

Needs the red rocker cover on anyway, else not papa smurf

this is true!! but looks a little gak imo with the red rocker on a blue block

Modded H23 belt tensioner FTW!

i neeeeearly went down that route, thinking of what you had done to that belt tensioner, plus i have a machine shop down the road, but luckily i hit the fitting sweet spot just in time.

[Drax]

ok people, guff removing time


ive read through all the big builds on this thread and most of this stuff "magically disappears" from page to page, only really mentioning what was removed, not how.
so, i want to remove the EVAP tank, EGR control solenoid valve, CVC plus any other stuff i dont need. so is a case of removing the items mentioned, plus all the evap lines, tubes, wires, attached etc? i dont want to remove any sensors that may flag up problems or remove anything that i need of course.
already done is;
Battery (relocated)
Air Con (removed)
Cruise Control (removed)

any help/advise much appreciated @4thgenphil @NafemanNathan @wurlycorner @Merlin

[hondaddict]

It may help but i'm not sure: i completly removed the EVAP system on my ATR, it wasn't difficult, just have to plug one nipple on the intake manifold and leave the pipe from the fuel tank .
I'm going to remove the hard line from the tank but not yet, i'm waiting for sunny days

[Merlin]

It is a simple as anything that draws vacuum from the IM that you end up removing needs plugged at the IM. The EVAP line can vent in the engine bay with no issue.

[hondaddict]

I also blank the EGR port with a plate and remove the EGR valve, i didn't have any error code but it is because i'm using Neptune with my P75


I read on your topic that you are running an F22 crank ? I'm going to use an H23 block with my spare PDE head
I have to read all the pages of your topic, it surely will be interesting and it maybe help me!

[NafemanNathan]

The physical side of it is simply just removing it by which ever means you prefer (socket & ratchet, spanners, bolt croppers, plasma cutter). Then make sure any vacuum pipes detached from are bunged. You can obviously remove the pipe up to the next component (be it the inlet manifold) and block it off there. Or it could lead you to the next item to remove (For example the EGR gumph will lead you to the carbon canister, which will lead you to a purge solenoid thingy, all of which can be removed.

The tricky side, which I haven't actually got to yet as you'll know is essentially "tuning" them out, so the ECU knows not to look for them. The EGR is the classic example. You can either tune it out or you can simply earth the connector so the ECU doesn't flash up a fault.

What are you planning on tuning it on, Hondata?

[Drax]

already have a P72 with a Hondata s300 installed

[Drax]

covers are now on for neatness


painted the alternator and p/s pump ready for the lightened pulleys to go on


plus the iacv


and these arrived today...

[NafemanNathan]

Kaaz? Quaife?...

Either way

[Drax]

Kaaz? Quaife?...

Either way

Mfactory Helical LSD & Stage 1 Racepack Upgrade

picked up some OEM bearings for it too from Honda last week.