F22B Crank in H22

3rd_gen_Aaron · Post by **3rd_gen_Aaron** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 5:59 pm

So I have a H23 crank thats been damaged from rough removal, I have been holding off getting it re-ground because of the bad stigma regrinding cranks has.

I've been looking around and it appears that the F blocks are very similar to the H. People have been removing SOHC and replacing with the H23 head ( and more rarely the H22 head).

An interesting page is https://badasstuning.wordpress.com/g23/ although re-using the head gasket sounds a bit cowboy

It appears that the F23 uses 55mm journals and different journal widths with a 97mm stroke, Whereas the F22 uses 50mm mains and the same width rod bearings and a 95mm stroke like the H23. As the F22 engines are available on eBay unlike the H23 I'm very tempted to buy a whole block to pinch the crank. I could possibly sell a few bits off it also.

I already have a set of 'king' rod bearings that I could then use which will help recovering some of the money I will be spending on the engine, as well as not paying for the grinding.

Does any one have any opinion on the fitment of the F22 crank? Would you normally have the journals polished when fitting new bearings? also if you think I'm wasting time with any items in my list please let me know.

My plans are;

H22 block
H22 JDM pistons new rings
H23 OEM rods with ARP bolts honed as necessary
H22 Type S head (matched to fit the bores if needed and skimmed dependent on clearance)
ARP Head studs
Type S cams
Balance shaft delete
5kg Flywheel
Under-driven crank pulley
Powerflow 2.5" exhaust (no cat)
Manual cam belt tensioner

After fitting I will look at Type S intake and 69mm TB.

Post by **Drax** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 9:54 pm

similar to my build bud

http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... t1400.html

im using an F22 crank in a H22 bottom end, F22 rods with H22 pistons and with a H22a7 head and inlet

3rd_gen_Aaron · Post by **3rd_gen_Aaron** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:58 pm

Cool, I shall have a read of that. looks very tidy though.

Were there any issues you had with the internals? I assume that you had it all balanced?

Post by **Drax** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:43 am

3rd_gen_Aaron wrote:Cool, I shall have a read of that. looks very tidy though.

Were there any issues you had with the internals? I assume that you had it all balanced?

no issues at all bud, and the previous owner to the bottom end of the block had already had some of the work done like the balance shaft delete, balancing of the crank and refitting so saved me a big job.

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:56 am

3rd_gen_Aaron wrote:It appears that the F23 uses 55mm journals and different journal widths with a 97mm stroke

I assume that is a typo and you meant H23? Also are you sure about the H23 having 55m mains crank? I am pretty sure it is 50mm. From the service manual (units are mm):

To my knowledge the only H22 engines to use the 55mm is the H22a8 and ATR H22a7.

Edit - Yeah realise you meant F23.

Post by **Drax** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:31 pm

think he's correct merl, depends which H23 as there is an A and a A1 as show in the list here;
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 0-330.html

Stroke
H22A4 = 90.7mm/3.570
H22A = 90.7mm/3.570
H23A = 95mm/3.740
H23A1 = 95mm/3.740
F22 = 95mm/3.740
F23 = 97mm/3.818
F20B = 88mm/3.464

Main Journal Diameter
H22A4 = 55mm
H22A4 = 50mm (1997 Only)
H22A = 50mm
H23A = 55mm
H23A1 = 50mm
F22 = 50mm
F23 = 55mm
F20B = 55mm

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:44 pm

Is that the H23 VTEC?

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 2:05 pm

I'm with Merlin. That all confused me too. I assumed you be talking H23a1 (non-vtec) crank which is 50mm journals.

If you wanted you use an H23a Vtec crank it's 55mm journals, so you'd have to use an H22a7 or H22a8 block. But that crank would be more difficult and I imagine more expensive to get hold of.

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 2:47 pm

Yeah I know nothing of the JDM H23a VTEC as they are super rare. The H23a VTEC does have a 55 mains crank according to the link below but since it is so rare I wouldn't bother even thinking about, plus like Nathan says since you will most likely have a 50mm block you wont be using this anyway.

Blocks and crank sizes (Rosko Racing - H23VTEC Build Info and Resource) - http://www.roskoracing.com/H23Vtec.html

It looks like its the UK H23a2's that will be the easiest to get hold of. Easier than the F22 anyway, that was JDM only wasn't it (Prelude's anyway, wasn't there F22's in UK Accords?)?

3rd_gen_Aaron wrote:My plans are;

H22 block
H22 JDM pistons new rings
H23 OEM rods with ARP bolts honed as necessary
H22 Type S head (matched to fit the bores if needed and skimmed dependent on clearance)
ARP Head studs
Type S cams
Balance shaft delete
5kg Flywheel
Under-driven crank pulley
Powerflow 2.5" exhaust (no cat)
Manual cam belt tensioner

After fitting I will look at Type S intake and 69mm TB.

I wouldn't think that the Type-S head is that necessary if you are planning on head work anyway. Also instead of a Type-S intake manifold I would got for an H22a7 ATR one

You missed engine management off the list

3rd_gen_Aaron · Post by **3rd_gen_Aaron** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:05 pm

I meant to put F23, that just where I started my search... probably irrelevant though lol.
The UK H23 does have 50mm mains but I cant find one, Hence why I am looking at the F22.

Ok, so the ATR intake is the one I will be after I assumed that they would be the same. I will probably save some money though until its running right. Is it pointless removing the IAB's in the stock mani?

I wasn't planning on anything other than cleaning the head up, matching it to the bores (maybe matching gaskets) and skimming slightly. The pistons do not fit correctly into the P13 head but fit, albeit tightly into the PDE head.

I've studied electronics so I will be starting off with a street tune using Crome and datalog on a P72 and wideband

. If that doesn't go to plan I'll go the Neptune/S300 route.

I'm not looking for lots of power but I'm always intrigued by something different.

I need to get things moving I've been collecting parts for around 4 years now