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Building N/A H22 - H2B
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Building N/A H22 - H2B
Hi guys, I'm actually a CRX owner and I'm currently collecting some parts to do a H2B swap, i have done some research but to be honest the H seems to be quite an unknown engine.
Now the overall aim would be to reach 250bhp this should be enough in a sub 850kg car.
A sort of spec i have in my head at the minute would be,
a H22 bottom end with F22 Crank (Supposedly the same as a stroker kit)
H22a7 head, port polish etc.
Some form of cams,retainers etc
That sort of general path is what I'm aiming for, do you people think i'm best to start with a h22a or a h22a7 or what ?
Just after some guidance/discussion to be honest. I may well drop a standard H22 in while i build another I'm unsure yet.
Now the overall aim would be to reach 250bhp this should be enough in a sub 850kg car.
A sort of spec i have in my head at the minute would be,
a H22 bottom end with F22 Crank (Supposedly the same as a stroker kit)
H22a7 head, port polish etc.
Some form of cams,retainers etc
That sort of general path is what I'm aiming for, do you people think i'm best to start with a h22a or a h22a7 or what ?
Just after some guidance/discussion to be honest. I may well drop a standard H22 in while i build another I'm unsure yet.
- NafemanNathan
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If you're considering P&P'ing a head, it doesn't really make any odds whether you use an "a" or an "a7". An a7 has a mild P&P from the factory, so anything you have done is going to be an improvement on that anyway.
With the right P&P'd head, say Skunk2 Pro 2 cams (springs retainers etc). 11.0:1 or higher pistons with matching rods, decent breathing and a good tune, then you'd be easily looking at 250+ brake without even bothering with an improved stroke.
With the right P&P'd head, say Skunk2 Pro 2 cams (springs retainers etc). 11.0:1 or higher pistons with matching rods, decent breathing and a good tune, then you'd be easily looking at 250+ brake without even bothering with an improved stroke.
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- NafemanNathan
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Yes, unless you sleeve your block sadly yes, due to the FRM liners. You could look at ATR pistons and rods for 11.0:1 CR (I've just sold a set, but I think someone else had a set on here for sale). Otherwise you could look at Mahle Gold series, but it's still only 11.5:1 max.tobiasnugent wrote:With the pistons and rods situation there is a very limited market i'm led to believe ?
Sourcing parts for these engines isn't easy! Where do you guys shop ?
I quite often use H-Tune. He generally has unbeatable prices and has a sister company in the States, so can get most trick bits. Otherwise there's Vtec Direct, 12Tune in Europe and... ebay

Dude you signed up on civiclife, a bloke called morf does a h2b adapter kit,
Heres my spec list as from september.
Block:
Sleeved h22 block
Wiseco high comp pistons 11.5:1
Balanced and knife edged crank
Balance shaft eliminator
Ks manual tensioner
Head:
Port and polished
Stock valves with Multi angle valve job
BC Stage 2 cams
Skunk2 adjustable cam pulleys
Supertech springs and retainers
Euro r inlet
2.5" intake
Tri y h2b manifold
3" system
450-550cc injectors
Remapped on chrome p28
Looking to achieve 250bhp although you can push a stock h22 to around 235bho with a good tuner how long it will last for i dunno.
Heres my spec list as from september.
Block:
Sleeved h22 block
Wiseco high comp pistons 11.5:1
Balanced and knife edged crank
Balance shaft eliminator
Ks manual tensioner
Head:
Port and polished
Stock valves with Multi angle valve job
BC Stage 2 cams
Skunk2 adjustable cam pulleys
Supertech springs and retainers
Euro r inlet
2.5" intake
Tri y h2b manifold
3" system
450-550cc injectors
Remapped on chrome p28
Looking to achieve 250bhp although you can push a stock h22 to around 235bho with a good tuner how long it will last for i dunno.
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- 4thgenphil
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h23 has the same crank aswell, you will have issues fitting the pistons to the rods as mahles and atr pistons have floating gudgeon pins as opposed to pressed ones fitted to the f22 and h23. you can over come this those!
where in the world are you? if you are thinking of sleeving i have a h22a7 block here along with both a h23 and a f22 crank (they are the same BTW)
i think i have a head or 2 knocking about but if you are set on an a7 head @bristol_bb4 did have one for sale along with an atr intake manifold (sat in my garage)
where in the world are you? if you are thinking of sleeving i have a h22a7 block here along with both a h23 and a f22 crank (they are the same BTW)
i think i have a head or 2 knocking about but if you are set on an a7 head @bristol_bb4 did have one for sale along with an atr intake manifold (sat in my garage)

- leefentonsheard
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Realistically i don't want to sleeve the block, i think its gonna be unnecessary spend for my needs.4thgenphil wrote:h23 has the same crank aswell, you will have issues fitting the pistons to the rods as mahles and atr pistons have floating gudgeon pins as opposed to pressed ones fitted to the f22 and h23. you can over come this those!
where in the world are you? if you are thinking of sleeving i have a h22a7 block here along with both a h23 and a f22 crank (they are the same BTW)
i think i have a head or 2 knocking about but if you are set on an a7 head @bristol_bb4 did have one for sale along with an atr intake manifold (sat in my garage)
I have had a look into a full skunk 2 valve train, arp bolts, males pistons and golden eagle rods coming to just over 2k. The info i found on cams is also quite dated and again american sites. I want it to have a near normal idle if possible also.