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How to fit front suspension strut brace (poll)

Chassis/Brakes/Steering/Wheels discussion

How to fit front suspension strut brace?

Car on the ground
12
86%
Car raised in the air
2
14%
 
Total votes: 14

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NafemanNathan
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Post by NafemanNathan » Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:26 pm

mercutio wrote:
NafemanNathan wrote:Is that a joke Merc?
Metalhead wrote:If you're bolting the brace to the existing upper mounts then would it make a great deal of difference whether the car was off the ground or not?
The chassis flexes when the load is on, as the shock towers are forced in ever so slightly. This is then exaggerated when cornering, hence the need for a brace.

All braces will work better under tension as apposed to compression, so the more pre-tension applied to a brace the better. By lifting the car before tightening the brace you'd be applying more compression, in which case the brace isn't likely to perform as it should.
nope if you have one side jacked up when its fitted your preloading one side of the suspension if you want it to sit as its designed then jacked up is the way to go
Maybe if you're fitting a triangle brace which also secures to the bulkhead, but with a regular brace like we all have it's self-centring/self-balancing.

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Post by RattyMcClelland » Tue Jun 13, 2017 11:38 pm

That's the exact opposite of how I have leant it. Same with rear roll bars.
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Post by NafemanNathan » Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:05 am

ARB's work differently in that you want/expect the ARB to pull/push in the same direction on the other side. Whereas you can't expect a strut brace to work like that.

From what you're suggesting, you compress one side and the other side flexes out? I guess that would give you an amount of positive camber of the uncompressed side.

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Post by DaveyBa8 » Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:41 am

Come on lads we are not in the F1 here :P

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Post by bennyboy » Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:29 pm

^ this :lol:

Jeeez, I remember this argument doing the rounds 15 years ago, I'd rather the one about the plane and the conveyor belt TBH!

Technicalities aside, the way I look at it is this - Unless you're doing something very odd, your car is not normally in the air, it is at rest on the ground. That's how your doors will have been levelled, your geo done, etc etc....
So, why raise the car, letting the chassis flex to an 'unnatural' position, and then clamp it there? Makes far more sense to me to brace it in it's natural rest position to avoid any flexing from THAT start point.
FYI, it's how I fitted mine 15 years ago and all is still well :lol: 8-)
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Post by NafemanNathan » Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:35 pm

DaveyBa8 wrote:Come on lads we are not in the F1 here :P
bennyboy wrote:^ this :lol:
Maybe that's just the difference between 4th gen and 5th gen owners then?...

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;) :lol:

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Post by bennyboy » Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:46 pm

:o
#TURNCOAT
NafemanNathan wrote:
DaveyBa8 wrote:Come on lads we are not in the F1 here :P
bennyboy wrote:^ this :lol:
Maybe that's just the difference between 4th gen and 5th gen owners drivers then?...

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;) :lol:
;)
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Post by NafemanNathan » Wed Jun 14, 2017 3:10 pm

:lol:

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Post by RattyMcClelland » Wed Jun 14, 2017 5:46 pm

You definately have to install 5th gen headlights in the air. So much chassis flex when removed.
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Post by Donald » Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:40 pm

bennyboy wrote:Jeeez, I remember this argument doing the rounds 15 years ago, I'd rather the one about the plane and the conveyor belt TBH!
:lol:

Getting on a plane a few days ago I overheard two people in front of me discussing the big round things attached to the wings.

"I wonder what they are, they look scary"

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