Charged K20a Prelude Type S

[mercutio]

have you thought about selling the mounts? not that i am going k20 but i am sure others will

[LewisH]

K20 prelude - if mine doesnt sell id be EXTREMELY interested in this. Its epic as drokk!

[Mudgey]

Thanks for the compliments everyone!

Yea I will hopefully be selling everything to do the swap. Please remember that the engine mounts seen so far are generation 1.0 mounts, there are changes to be made for clearance, tidyness and adjustability.

I am hoping to have the following available for sale:

1. Engine Mount kit - Direct bolt on.
2. Driveshafts - Turns out Hasport 4th gen shafts won't work.
3. Custom Exhaust Header - nothing off the shelf fits without cutting, K-Tuned Ram Horn Header is the closest.
4. Throttle cable bracket - retains original cable.
5. Transmission gearcable bracket - retains original shifter & cables.
6. Fuel rail kit, includes braided hose, regulator & regulator bracket.
7. Conversion Harness.
8. Battery Tray / Relocation Kit.
9. Charge harness.
10. Earth Straps.
11. Cooling hose kit for radiator and vehicle heater.

There maybe some other items I have forgotten right now. In all honesty I think were looking at around £1500 for all those parts listed above but they will be for sale seperately as some things you guys can knock up for yourselves or do differently.

There is some cutting of the rear cross member to get the engine/box back as far as possible & a weld in plate will be supplied. The axles are as inline as the original prelude shafts and are far straighter than Hasport got them in the 4th gen as they didnt cut the cross member. Everybody says K24 for the prelude, but in all honesty the gearboxes are the weak points and adding extra displacement over revs means you have to upgrade the internals of the gbox at a lower horsepower. The k20 also doesn't suffer from ground clearance problems that the K24 does (its 20mm shorter), and with our roads this is very important. The K20 currently sits level with the fore/aft crossmember, and if your willing to cut the underskin of the bonnet it can sit 10-15mm higher again, this means you can slam your lude and not worry bout the sump

If your interested in prices etc, give me a PM and I'll let you know as soon as I get that far!

[Mudgey]

Updates from over the past couple weeks:

















I had two of the battery trays made to fit the standard prelude battery, if anyone wants my 2nd one, I can ship it for £15 which includes the battery strap as well.

[nitin_s1]

[honda-hardy]

that ram horn mani is the biz.

[judderod]

I see the strap holds the battery to the tray, but what holds the tray to the chassis?

[NafemanNathan]

Love.

Surely it's just a case of drilling holes to suit?

[Mudgey]

I got fed up that day and didn't bother measuring the hole positions, the battery only just fits back in the slot where the air filter used to be so I thought i'd get it exactly where needed n drill the holes then.

I am going to be changing the header it sits too close to the master cylinder, so when I get my exhaust done i'll get a custom manifold done at the same time.

The Double Din panel you see holds an AEM boost / air fuel gauge, a OBDII display to show fuel economy n a host of other sensor read outs from the ECU, and a button for controlling the actuator on the SC bypass.

I have my fuel system done and hopefully will have my charge harness complete by the end of the day.

[nucleustylzlude]

and a button for controlling the actuator on the SC bypass.

How have you managed this out of interest, is the actuator electronic on these JRSC kits? Mine is run from a vacuum source. Please explain, sounds like a great idea.