Never Ending Story... Prelude race car build.

[JayJay]

Ah right, I assumed it was but I wanted to make sure though. He could have put some switches/variable resistors together or somthing and made one himself

I'm also curious about how loud it is. If that one fitted to the Prelude was so loud because it was always at 100% because the control unit wasn't there that would explain it

[Merlin]

Rich - What a build! I cant wait to see it finished. You have given me lots of little ideas of what I can do to my track hack, specifically the dash as that is one of my upcoming jobs. Mucho reps+++

[Buzzonion Vtec]

Thanks for the kind comments and feedback again chaps

Going back to the power steering or lack of... I would say you either love it or hate it, for me I love it completely and would not go back to PAS on this car full stop. My H22 Teg also is not power assisted as are many other Civic, Prelude and Integra fast road/track/race cars I've put together over the years. Out of all of those I would say only one person has ever kind of regretted doing it but that was more down to the fact his circumstances changed and he ended up mostly town driving which can be a pain for some.

Remember this car was my daily driver even in stripped and cage1 spec with no PAS so it's not like I didn't have to live with it. Drove all over the country to many different tracks and several trips to Spa with it as well.


Dave
I understand what you are saying and you are right to a certain extent but if the PAS is removed completely then many modern cars are perfectly fine without the assistance. Some need a little bit of geometry work to help I admit but certainly nothing extreme. There are a large number of modern cars now with electric systems and many are linked into stability assist which limits the removal without further fairly major work. Most electric systems are pretty decent and pretty light so not worth the bother any way.


Regarding the MR2 system on the BMW
Yes the MR2 system can be very noisy if left running flat out and not isolated from the body. This one was mounted on rubber blocks and was never run flat out so noise wasn't too bad in fairness. Not the best system to use but cheap and pretty reliable. The variable resistance and off cabability came from cobbling together a heater blower switch and heater blower resistor pack from an old Vauxhall Carlton if I remember correctly. Not ideal but again it was done on a budget and it worked so what the hell


Merlin
Thanks mate, I can't wait to see it finished either....seems a long way of mind you.
The scary thing is that it's only my stubborness that's stopping it from being back together and in use. I could quite easily transfer the engine and box out of the race Teg and into the Lude, run a stock(ish) wiring loom, bond the windows in and she'd be near enough there....but that ain't gonna happen because I'll end up wanting to go back and do stuff again. Having said that, the engine and box sat in the Teg now are the ones that were destined as "test mule" for the Lude initially. I will just need to retro fit some of the ignition parts and a few other changes to make use of it again.
Have fun with your dash...just take your time and be methodical with it and you'll be just fine


Hopefully once the weather warms up a little there will be some fresh updates.

[JayJay]

I've always wanted to try the car without PAS, but I'm worried I'll hate it! Is there a way to easily cut out the PAS to get a feel for it?

[Ammo]

I drove a car for years with no PAS, was fine as long as it was moving.

Only after I switched to a car with PAS did I realise it was the source of the shoulder pain I'd been having though lol

For a road car I'd keep it, if it's a track car ditch it

[NafemanNathan]

Not easily on a lude. If you simply remove the belt, you still have the fluid in the rack that you have to force around the system un-aided, so it'll actually be harder to turn the wheels than with a proper delete.

You could get under the car and release the hardlines to the rack which will do the trick, but then you'll obviously have to re-bleed the system should you decide you want to keep PAS.

[JayJay]

Haha I'd still like to feel just what it's like.

Nafe - so it'd be a case of removing the belt and emptying the system? Doesn't there need to be a small amount of fluid in there?

[NafemanNathan]

You'll never get all the fluid out anyway, but yeah, some left in the rack is good to keep it lubricated. I'm assuming you'd be draining the system and then taking it for a spin straight away, or would you want to test it over a week or so?

If testing it straight away and going for a short spin, then literally drain the system (full-locking it in both directions a number of times to get all out. Just wait until it pretty much stops dripping), then make sure the pipes under the car are secure (There should be various clips, so they shouldn't be flapping all over the place), remove the belt and go for a quick potter with the rack open to the elements (Maybe put the cover plate back in place though just in case any crap decides to fly up).

If you fancy it for a week or so, then you pretty much need to do the delete properly, but leaving your existing piping 100% intact in case you want to put it back again. I think I've done a how-to in my 60 page thread somewhere Should be under a thread update.

[JayJay]

I'd prefer it for a week or so. I was thinking of making up 2 hoses, and just draining the system and plugging the hoses in (and removing the belt ). Basically "removing" it without taking it out the car.

Then drive around for a while, if I don't like I just plug the original lines back in and bleed it. If I do like it then I can continue with the removal.

[NafemanNathan]

Sounds like a plan Did you find my how-to?

Oh and sorry Rich