To much and to little caster on front wheels.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:47 pm

I know there isint much anyone can do here, but im abit sickend, to much of a perfectionist and everything gets to me, but my passenger wheel is more rearward in the arch compared to the drivers side. i got the factory dimensions this morning and measured from the center hub on the rear to the centre hub on the front, the factory dimension is 2550mm,

The drivers side came in at 2550mm, but the passenger side has come in at 2535mm, 15mm out, i only noticed as i was doing a 3-9 check on the wheel for play, ( i do this every so often) and i found it tight to get my hand in on one side. its bugging me now, and i had a good old check this evening and cant see anything bent, but i guess i would be dam impossible to tell as a slight bend on the inside could mean big effects for the outer.

So any ideas?????

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:53 pm

there is a long rod called the radius rod. You can actually fit shims to shorten or lengthen the rod. If you look under the front of the car you will see a single large nut that bolts the radius rod to the front of the subframe. Have a look in the service manual.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:56 pm

is that the rod that sits in a big bush, that connects to the front engine mount sub frame? the rod connects to the LCA with 2 bolts?

Post by **vanzep** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:09 pm

yes thats the one

the shims have to be fitted on the inside of the front subframe so wont be a 2minute job to do - just in case you were thinking itd be easy

so you will have to take the radius rods off by undoing the two bolts - quite difficult to undo if i remember right

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:18 pm

when i was outside i was going to pop out the 2 bolts and see if the arm shot forward, beacuse when i changed the C.V joints and shafts i found it hard to line up that dam radius rod without wrecking the threads. so what would be the best procedure to tackle this?

I have a spare subframe with the rods still on it, would it be handier to just swap that over, there must be a reason why the rod has shot back abit.

If a mod reads this can they change the title to "Less caster on one wheel" or "To little caster on one wheel" or what ever sounds better.

Ted · Post by **Ted** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:49 pm

there is a bit of adjustment on these, if you slacken all the bolts on both sides and pull one side forward and the other back a little you may find a happy medium to atleast get them both the same if not both right, and as said you can shim them also. if you have spares change the short one and see what you get its not a hard job to do, yes the bolts can be tight but iv'e yet to have one refuse to budge or snap on me.it could be the bush at the front is worn and has compressed at the front so maybe change the 2 rods and the front crossmember complete. or you could have a lca bent so if you have 1 of them change that at the same time 2. as for changing the title you can do that yourself by clicking on your first post on the topic and clicking on edit, change the title and click submit.

judderod · Post by **judderod** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:08 pm

15mm sounds like quite a bit. Maybe measure the rear hubs to the leading edge of the sills by the front wheel to make sure your reference points are even.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:03 am

tramroadmotors wrote:there is a bit of adjustment on these, if you slacken all the bolts on both sides and pull one side forward and the other back a little you may find a happy medium to atleast get them both the same if not both right, and as said you can shim them also. if you have spares change the short one and see what you get its not a hard job to do, yes the bolts can be tight but iv'e yet to have one refuse to budge or snap on me.it could be the bush at the front is worn and has compressed at the front so yymaybe change the 2 rods and the front crossmember complete. or you could have a lca bent so if you have 1 of them change that at the same time 2. as for changing the title you can do that yourself by clicking on your first post on the topic and clicking on edit, change the title and click submit.

Thanks for the help, I will suss it out tomorrow and see what the deal is, I may just swap over the whole thing, I see no signs of accident damage at all, the bolts are tricky but I've had them off all ready and greased up so shouldn't be a problem, but I didn't know the radius arm could cause this. I really hope I can get it set right, the car should feel better on the road to.

The measurements are good it's more like 13mm I will double check tomorrow but its defo off, as I can fit 4 fingers in one side and just about 3 in the other.

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:27 pm

Hopefully not this for your case, but when I first got my car and lowered it it was obvious I had a similar issue with my OSF wheel, although mine was more like an inch to an inch and a half out...

Turned out it was my lower control arm at fault. Not the replacement one is on the top

...

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:14 pm

Jesus that's well out, I have a spare arm here its of the car and all, just don't fancy taking the balljoint of yet, I'll just put the arm underneath the other and see if I can see much difference, I have the other subframe with radius rods of now to and it looks in great shape, I see the one that's on the car has been bottomed out before on both sides as its tire the plastic guard and dented both sides where the rods sit,