Suspension swap "how-to" needed possibly..

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:43 pm

Hey,
Does anyone have a suspension swap guide? I have a 4th in my garage on lowered suspension and a 4th on my drive on stock shocks n springs - I wanna do a straight swap, any ideas how difficult this is??

Thanks guys n gals

bristol_bb4 · Post by **bristol_bb4** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:52 pm

It is simple mate but there are problems you can run into! I've changed the suspension on a. Lude in 2 hours, where as yesterday it took me and rob the best part of 6 hours to lower fweakyg's lude!!

But as said, it is pretty simple if everything goes right and you don't have to swap springs over etc

Jack all four corners up if possible! If your not able to, work from front to back, not side to side, so make sure when your doing the front, both front wheels are off the ground and the same when your doing the back! Trust me it makes it easier!

On the fronts, first remove the brake line mounts on the shock, its two 14mm and two 10(?) Then remove the pinch bolt at the top of the fork DON'T remove the lower fork bolt. Then stand on the hub so the shock comes away from the fork, then remove the 3 14mm nuts on the topmount to remove the shock from the car.

On the rear, remove the boot lining and remove the two 14mm top mount nuts then the 17mm bolt attatching the shock to the lower arm, get a mate to stand on the hub while you move the shock to the rear of the car and manipulate it away from the car, this does take a little bit of faffing about and groaning but it honestly is the quickest and easiest way to do it.

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:54 pm

EDIT: I've typed all this now, so not letting Ste take ALL the limelight!!

Easiet will just be to swap the whole strut units over.

I've recently swapped from shock to coilovers, and now I know how to do it I could do it again in a couple of hours. As I was fighting with it I didn't take any pics along the way to help others though!

For the fronts, you NEED to remove the fork from the bottom of the srtut, otherwise it just won't come out!

It's a 14mm bolt which you will need to remove, you should then be able to stand on the hub and seperate the fork from the strut. Then remove the 17mm bolt from the bottom of the fork and remove the fork. Then undo the 3 12/14mm (I can't remember which) strut top bolts. Remove 2 first, then loosen the last one, as you get to the point where you can turn it by hand, reach under the car and hold the strut then remove the last nut, this stops the strut just falling out onto your driveshaft. Fitting is reverse of removal, except I fitted the fork to the strut once the 3 top nuts were done up, and then just lifted the LCA into place for the 17mm bolt.

Rears are much easier, 2 14mm nuts at top, and 1 17mm bolt at bottom. It's worth noting that on the bottom of the rear struts there is a captive nut, so you can only undo from one side, it should be the rear side of the strut.

For both, you may find it helps to undo one of the drop links from the anti-roll bars so the other side isn't pulling up on the side you're trying to work on!

bristol_bb4 · Post by **bristol_bb4** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:59 pm

Serious you don't need to remove the fork dude....guess u just haven't got the skillz I have

Post by **Gayno** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:03 pm

It probably could be done.

But with having to manipulate the LCA to seat the fork, it'll be a lot easier to remove the 17mm bolt, fit the fork to the strut, then just lift the LCA back into place.

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:04 pm

I would remove the fork to make it easier to get it out. The fork has to be removed anyway to be swapped over to the coilover.

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:04 pm

Brilliant!! Thanks guys, it doesn't sound TOO difficult after all.. my donor lude is already up in the air minus its wheels, and driveshafts and gearbox - i'll remove all of them first I think..

bristol_bb4 · Post by **bristol_bb4** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:10 pm

Don't understand how it could possibly be easier to remove the fork?? Guess its just an example of how people do things differently!

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:11 pm

Depends how short your new shock assembly is and whether you're doing the job on your own Ste

Did my fronts on the Aerodeck at the weekend and I did each side differently. It is honestly "easier" to drop the fork from the LCA to then locate it back on the new strut. Then bolt the top mount back in position, then use your jack under the LCA to lift it up and line the hole back up with the fork.

Not removing the fork from the LCA may be quicker depending on conditions of things, but it does take more brute strength than brains

bristol_bb4 · Post by **bristol_bb4** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:15 pm