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How to:H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion
- NafemanNathan
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I had a spare 14400-p14-004 belt and after trying to fit that, I found it was for a H23 and was slightly too short so used a new H22 Gates beltNafemanNathan wrote:Just to confirm, as I can't remember what I ordered last time I had this done, but what belt is supposed to be used with an H23 manual tensioner conversion... An H22 belt or an H23 belt?
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- NafemanNathan
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I used an H22 belt after doing the conversion, it was really tight, but it did fit. Have no idea what make that belt was now though!
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its a REALLY tight fit and took 2 of us to get it on, and there is a technique to doing it, but defo fitted - done it twice now on the same engine, one pre-used h22 belt and one new h22 belt, both a T226NafemanNathan wrote:Well I'm at the garage now and they're struggling to get the H22 belt I supplied to fit. It's a gates T226. It's too tight.
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its difficult to describe
after putting the belt on the crank and around the waterpump, we connected it onto the top left cam gear with the belt just near the edge for a bit of slack, after putting it in tdc first.
we then moved the right hand cam gear into tdc, and held it their while hooking the right hand side of the belt to that cam gear over just a few teeth, then instead of continuing to tension the cam gear into tdc we released the tension and pushed cambelt on using the tension in the belt which seemed to help it onto the cam gear and onto the rest of the teeth easier

after putting the belt on the crank and around the waterpump, we connected it onto the top left cam gear with the belt just near the edge for a bit of slack, after putting it in tdc first.
we then moved the right hand cam gear into tdc, and held it their while hooking the right hand side of the belt to that cam gear over just a few teeth, then instead of continuing to tension the cam gear into tdc we released the tension and pushed cambelt on using the tension in the belt which seemed to help it onto the cam gear and onto the rest of the teeth easier

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- vanzep
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H22 belt is very tight - takes a while for it to slacken off a bit - however I believe PAW also do a mod on the tensioner bracket to overcome this. Should be a few minutes work with the dremel 

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- NafemanNathan
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Well I managed to overcome it evertually, but it was a few stressful hours. I had a call from the garage at 2:30pm saying they just couldn't get the belt on, it's too small and that they weren't happy to fit it, could I come down to have a look. So I drove down to have a look and sure enough the belt was rock solid. Absolutely no slack and the tensioner hadn't even been tightened on yet, so it would have been even tighter!
The only way to give it some slack was to elongate the kidney hole in the tensioner, but even then the tensioner arm was fouling on the head of the bolt from the tensioner bracket as it was...

We even had to replace an original Honda bolt with the shallower headed gold bolt seen in these pics as that even fouled on the bearing itself! (See the clearance in this pic and then compare the gold bolt to the other Honda bolt at the bottom of the pic)...

So in short, I had to rush back to work with the bearing and bracket and elongate both slotted holes on the bearing with the die grinder. I didn't get any pictures due to rushing, but the green is basically the mods I made to the slots. The centre of the bearing is hardened steel as well, so it was slow going
...

And I had to remove a bit from the arm (Shown in red), and I had one of the guys machine 4mm off the bracket (Where shown in blue) and countersink the hole to suit an M8 countersnk screw for additional clearance...

I then rushed back to the garage with only 4 minutes before closing time and quickly trial fitted the parts myself...
... And thank god... Plenty of slack
God only knows why there was such an issue. These are all the correct parts, I've bought them all before and supplied them to be fitted in another engine with no issues or complaints. So the only thing I can think off is that although it was supposedly the correct belt (Gates T226 155x24) , this one maybe came up a tad short

The only way to give it some slack was to elongate the kidney hole in the tensioner, but even then the tensioner arm was fouling on the head of the bolt from the tensioner bracket as it was...

We even had to replace an original Honda bolt with the shallower headed gold bolt seen in these pics as that even fouled on the bearing itself! (See the clearance in this pic and then compare the gold bolt to the other Honda bolt at the bottom of the pic)...

So in short, I had to rush back to work with the bearing and bracket and elongate both slotted holes on the bearing with the die grinder. I didn't get any pictures due to rushing, but the green is basically the mods I made to the slots. The centre of the bearing is hardened steel as well, so it was slow going


And I had to remove a bit from the arm (Shown in red), and I had one of the guys machine 4mm off the bracket (Where shown in blue) and countersink the hole to suit an M8 countersnk screw for additional clearance...

I then rushed back to the garage with only 4 minutes before closing time and quickly trial fitted the parts myself...
... And thank god... Plenty of slack

God only knows why there was such an issue. These are all the correct parts, I've bought them all before and supplied them to be fitted in another engine with no issues or complaints. So the only thing I can think off is that although it was supposedly the correct belt (Gates T226 155x24) , this one maybe came up a tad short

