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4G swapping ECU's? What's possible?

Engine/Gearbox questions and discussion
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NafemanNathan
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Post by NafemanNathan » Thu Apr 19, 2012 8:25 am

That's a bit pap dude :( Again, at least you know what it is, so don't need to waste anymore time or money (other than for a new ecu) to find out what it is.

So it was definitely working before the chip carrier was installed was it? Was the guy you had do the soldering's work guaranteed?

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Post by indigolemon » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:03 am

Ah crap, that sucks man :-(
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Post by vanzep » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:03 am

Yeah ive never touched the ecu or had any problems before last week - it was in the car and running strong. the guy who did the soldering is genuinely upset about this - he says he cant believe its not working and that it must be that as the board is mutilayered it must be one of the pin holes has been damaged when removing the oem chip as there is no visible external damage. I guess its just one of those unfortunate things that happen from time to time.
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Post by indigolemon » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:06 am

Yeah man, that was why my mate snipped the pins on the oem chip, he worries about damage if he tried to remove it whole. Wracking my brains trying to think where we can get a JDM P13 in a hurry :x
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Post by Dbo » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:17 am

on another thread somone said they had a spare one was that no good?
the guy who done mine was really worried about doing it to, saying the same that any micro hole would bugger it up :(
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Post by vanzep » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:24 am

Merlin is bringing his spoon ecu through 8-) for a temporary loan

I told the guy about snipping the pins to make removal easier and about avoiding heat build up but he took his time and removed the oem chip in one piece - it did make a noise when he pinged it out as it looks like it was also glued to the board on the underside of the chip-dont know if this is when something got broken. I dont know anything/enough about electronics to really pinpoint the fault.
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Post by nucleustylzlude » Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:07 pm

Aw bud, I feel for ya. I was hoping it was just a duff chip. I hadn't realised you had the OKI chip out in one piece, that would have ruled things out from the start.

As per your PM, the only other thing apart from damage to the ECU is the socket - maybe that got damaged in some way either in transit or installation? I check all the chips and sockets physically when I get them as I've had the odd pin missing from a couple - I guess it's a long haul from Hong Kong. But only send out good ones.

I wonder, have you actually checked the code from the dash light? At a push, maybe something major has failed other than the ECU, just happened to have been at the same time you switched??? A long shot but worth a check. Obviously you need to put the ECU in, try it for the light to come on then check it - the code is stored in the ECU and will reset if you've taken it out.

Hold onto the two chips for now and see if you can get another ECU to try I guess? I bet this has put you off trying again though? :roll:

I'm amazed that Ste managed to sodler it himself now! :lol:

If there's anything else I can do bud, just ask.

I do have a spare UKDM ECU, but not sure how helpful that would be in the long run. You can have it for p&p while your hunting a JDM P13? Just let me know.

Cheers,


Rob

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Post by nucleustylzlude » Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:09 pm

nucleustylzlude wrote:I wonder, have you actually checked the code from the dash light? At a push, maybe something major has failed other than the ECU, just happened to have been at the same time you switched??? A long shot but worth a check. Obviously you need to put the ECU in, try it for the light to come on then check it - the code is stored in the ECU and will reset if you've taken it out.
I've just realised how dumb this is as you've been driving on a borrowed ECU fine! :roll: :suicide:

I guess it's worth a look to see if there's a specific problem and trace the corresponding terminal wire through the board to the chip??? (shrugs shoulders)

:?

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Post by bristol_bb4 » Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:12 pm

nucleustylzlude wrote:I'm amazed that Ste managed to sodler it himself now! :lol:
hey what the hell! :evil: im actually quite handy and clever ill have you know! :lol: :P

and just to add, ive actually soldered my chip in to two different ecu's without a problem so ner! :scaredtoss: lol
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Post by vanzep » Thu Apr 19, 2012 5:32 pm

nucleustylzlude wrote:
nucleustylzlude wrote:I wonder, have you actually checked the code from the dash light? At a push, maybe something major has failed other than the ECU, just happened to have been at the same time you switched??? A long shot but worth a check. Obviously you need to put the ECU in, try it for the light to come on then check it - the code is stored in the ECU and will reset if you've taken it out.
I've just realised how dumb this is as you've been driving on a borrowed ECU fine! :roll: :suicide:

vanzep replied - well its easy to lose track of whats being going in and out ;)
id check for stored codes with my old ecu in and got nothing - just ec light on solid
i was talking to Alistair(Merlin) about the fact ive never been able to pull a code and no ec light on ever

I guess it's worth a look to see if there's a specific problem and trace the corresponding terminal wire through the board to the chip??? (shrugs shoulders)

:?
I have sent ecu and oem chip and v2 x 2 chips off to have them looked at and you will be glad to hear that im not giving up on fitting this chip in fact im determined to get some benefit out of this hassle in the long run.
Its being sent off to fellow forum member so we should get some info back which would be cool. You can never rule out the human element so im interested to see if any specific hardware problem can be traced.
1996-2000 1993 EG9 Blue Civic 1.6 Vti - Traded in against the BB4
2000-2019 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD

2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2021 ON > 1998 2WS BB6 White Pearl JDM Prelude Si VTEC

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