
The temp sender was the cure for my non-restarting issue...
But it was the FITV that was causing my surging.
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... 2-130.html
BMCC wrote:The idle control system uses a signal from the alternator to know when it is charging (so it can raise rpms to compensate for the extra drag). If you changed the alternator and this stopped the bouncy idle then it looks like a faulty alternator signal was the cause of your bouncy idle.
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/post15812.html#p15812Merlin wrote:Ever since I have owned it, the car has had a bouncing idle. See thread about it:
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t898.html
However after simply putting in another alternator the problems seems to be cured![]()
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[youtube]nT80RyMbxOY[/youtube]
I noticed the lack of bounching when I drove it in town this lunchtime, my drive to work in the morning doesnt have any stops so I didnt notice it. I have no idea how its sorted itself but I guess its a resultEven though it doesnt settle straight away.
With my VTEC hesitation gone and the bouching stopped im only left with a knock sensor CEL to deal with
roger! ill just do the sensor swap.NafemanNathan wrote: Also, be careful with the sender... They like to shear. Probably best not to bother swapping that one.
not yet, ill get a video up asap from it starting up to it eventually huntingNafemanNathan wrote:So have we got a video of your hunting issue Dan?
ok ill still see if I can change it. my hunting seems more extreme than yours in your vid, my idle starts at 3k nowMerlin wrote:My alternator always kicked out the correct voltage.Drax wrote:i will borrow a multi-meter to test the output of the alternator to check that's up to scratch at 14v.