BB1 Scrapyard Dog - Mugen sides

[vanzep]

cheers guys - will have a look at the manual

[vanzep]

fitted the new poly mount on the cambelt side hoping that this would cure the vibration that im getting through the steering wheel at idle
that didnt work out
so i might have to swap the rear engine mount out for a standard one and see if that cures it
still not sure if there is another underlying issue with the idle

i think im going to get the timing gun out and check the timing on the new flywheel and check the alternator and distributor

to cheer myself up i fitted a new exterior drivers side window trim-what a ball ache that was but eventually got it done and also fitted repainted fm style cooling plate. im getting fed up constantly working in the rain

thanks to @newkid for the cooling plate

new sikaflexed mounts vs old rusty one - no change in vibration at idle


new exterior window moulding and hopefully no more wind noise at drivers door


before repainted cooling plate


after cooling plate fitted

[vanzep]

The lude got covered in cement dust the other day so took the opportunity to give it a good clean up and also touch up some of the stone chips and small scratches and scrapes to the front and back bumpers
You can see the new rear tow hook which has been added as a deterent
Wiper blades put back to standard and wiper arms painted and new wiper motor fitted and scuttle panel cleaned out and painted.
Ive still got a couple of minor issues to resolve to make it run perfect - IACV and Starter Motor are top of the list- just got to keep chipping away got to admit im a bit fussy about getting it spot on

[vanzep]

Checked out the voltage.
Yuasa Pro battery 3 years old.
Battery
(engine off) 12.56
At idle
(stereo on) 14.55
rear demist&stereo 14.48
demist,stereo&headlights 14.32
as above with ac on 14.16

going to compare with results from the BB4

[bennyboy]

Think that's pretty much textbook mate. I was getting 12.42v on the battery and then 14.46v across it when running, so alternator doing its thing.

[vanzep]

yep just taken results from BB4

BB4 with genuine Honda Battery 6 months old.

Battery
(engine off) 12.68
At idle 14.76
rear demist&stereo 14.60
demist,stereo&headlights 14.33
as above with heater&fan on ac removed 14.12

compared to results from BB1
Yuasa Pro battery 3 years old.

Battery
(engine off) 12.56
At idle
(stereo on) 14.55
rear demist&stereo 14.48
demist,stereo&headlights 14.32
as above with ac on 14.16

marginally higher results but practically the same so both batteries and alternators working as they should.

[vanzep]

swapped out old IACV and bouncing/dropping idle is now sorted
fitted new starter motor - still takes 3-4 cranks to get it started from cold
will be taking a closer look at the disti and maybe fitting new igniter pack - dizzy cap and rotor arm look fine
also going to run some fuel line cleaner through and see if this helps - i can hear the ful pump prime and also checked main relay which is ok.

[wurlycorner]

Just to note... I ran up the bb4 at the weekend and used it to run a tyre inflator to pump up a tyre my poor old neglected gorgeous green bb1 still languishing on the drive anyway... the inflator was running seriously drokking slow, so I got the multimeter out to check out what was going on... shocking voltage
Turns out my idle was set just the bit too low to maintain where it should be.
I will post up the details in the bb4 thread when I can be arsed...

[vanzep]

Still struggling with this lude
Ive had a few worries over the recent clutch and flywheel change

I noticed the other day the clutch pedal was squeaking (this is not unusal in a lude is it..) but what was unusual this time was the 2 to 3 inches of free play at the pedal before any resistance so checked and found the fluid level had dropped below the min level. Quick inspection at the pedals showed the mc has a small leak/weep into the footwell. Typical - all that work that i doen recently replacing clutch and fly and the one part that wasnt changed starts playing up

There is also a very slight pull to the left (had this for quite a while now) and fair bit of brake dust on that wheel.Ive had a couple of goes at fixing it and it did seem to free off for a day or two but im thinking the caliper piston is sticking a bit again so im going to replace it.
Fortunately ive got a blueprint clutch mc and spare front calipers so provided it stays dry today im gong to give it a go

Also got some unwanted clunking from the front and vibration due to poly mounts to be checked out once i get these jobs out the way.....

[vanzep]

Got some help this week and finally managed to make some progress

Turns out that the replacement ball joint in the upper arm was moving about and not secure and the driveshaft inner cv was also moving about and slapping against the gearbox casing. So these parts were replaced. I swapped over the polybush bits on the upper arms over and had the ball joint on the replacement arm tack welded. Thanks to @Merlin for finding the fault with the ball joint. If your replacing the ball joints they need to have a tack weld to hold them securely in place

Here is a pic of the upper arm which shows how the ball joint has lifted out of position and also they can turn in the socket which obviously is not a good thing



I also removed the rear poly engine mount and put a standard one back in - this has cut the vibration through the steering wheel and ive also been able to reset the idle to normal levels as a result.

Front brakes have also been cleaned up and new Red Stuff brake pads fitted.

Just got to get the clutch master cylinder replaced and then go for 4 wheel alignment.