ju5ta5 5g gold lude

[ju5ta5]

I have heard of Dynamat before. How many layers would you do on the doors though? 2-3? the door closing noise should change I hope to a better sound

As with any job, you cannot finish at one corner, need to do all 4 to be done completely

Just looked on ebay, that stuff aint cheap would prob cost few hundred to get boot and doors covered

[bb1boy]

The ultimate is Dynamat Xtreme, but there are cheaper alternatives now mate. Brown Bread used to be good, I think Fatmat Extreme is cheap now too..

It depends how nuts you want to go. My doors were deadened on the inside of the outer skin (inside the door) and then on both sides of the inner frame with little greased openings for door handle rods etc. I fitted a set of 6" DLS reference component speakers in the doors (tweeters on dash) and the bass from the doors alone was amazing!

Also, if you're doing 2 layers, do a big first layer and then put smaller bits on top in the middle of the panels to deaden some more.

EDIT: Downside is extra weight, my doors sounded awesome closing but if you caught a leg in there it'd chop it clean off hahaha

[RattyMcClelland]

Don't get dynamat. Way overpriced considering it's just a butyl/bitumen mat with foil.
Whole point in deadening it to add mass to a panel and lower its resonance frequency to a less audible level.

Get silent coat extra and do 2 layers on each skin.

It won't cut road noise much but will stop panel resonance and increase bass response. Mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam will reduce road noise.

[lewd lude lover]

imho the ivanhoe stuff or any of the blue backed generic rolls available on ebay are good enough for our use. I have done multiple instals on ludes now and there is no difference between them 'really'.

Iv done dynamat and cheap stuff and they all do the same thing.

I would also highly recommend cutting up some polyester pillows and stuffing the filling into the cavities in the rear quarters and through to the back seat. Huge gaping maws that made the world of difference to the solidity of the bass field once filled.

Remember you dont need to cover 100%. 20% coverage will give you great deadening, the more you put on the better it gets. I always put the most layers around the driver area then space it out a bit as you move away. So 4 layers within 5 inches of the driver and speading out to pieces with gaps between them two feet away. Cutting it all up into strips and then cutting bits off as you need is a useful thing.

removing OEM tar deadening couldn't be easier. wait for a cold day and strip out the car. hit the tar with a hammer hard enough to give it a 'crack'. this will seperate huge chunks from the car each go once you get the knack and leave you with very clean surface

this was the biggest single piece I removed



in progress


I didnt want to go mad on this one due to weight reduction so it was a strip out and reapply in better areas



Highly recommend using this 2.5cm padding into the roof gap and the doors and anywhere you can stuff it. makes so much difference to the solid feeling of the music



I cant find the pics of the red ones instal. that was full blown crazy. It sounded like a Sclass merc in their almost weird as your voice just sounded dead. No resonance, no timbre, just flat Sounded fantastic for a tin can

[wurlycorner]

Remember you dont need to cover 100%. 20% coverage will give you great deadening

Exactly this!

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for great unbiased advice (i.e. without all the marketing bullshit you get if you look on dynamat and the likes sites).
Also great products...

[ju5ta5]

Remember you dont need to cover 100%. 20% coverage will give you great deadening

Exactly this!

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for great unbiased advice (i.e. without all the marketing bullshit you get if you look on dynamat and the likes sites).
Also great products...

Those videos in the link are good and explain everything in no words!

[ju5ta5]

removing OEM tar deadening couldn't be easier. wait for a cold day and strip out the car. hit the tar with a hammer hard enough to give it a 'crack'. this will seperate huge chunks from the car each go once you get the knack and leave you with very clean surface

this was the biggest single piece I removed



in progress

Is OEM deadening no good? I though I could just do on top of it

[wurlycorner]

OEM sound deadening is better than nowt, but it's not as good as pukka aftermarket stuff (oem stuff is compromise between deadening, cost and speed to assemble).


@lewd lude lover what are all the ECU shennanigans under the drivers seat on yours? Is that the ATTS ECUmagickerytrickery?

[lewd lude lover]

yar i think thats the ecu and atts ecu.

I took all the sound deadening out of mine and it made no difference the oem stuff is pants. half the coverage with better stuff for more effect if you ask me.

[ju5ta5]

yeah, it feels that oem sound deadening not doing much

I need to mentally prepare for this one as it will take some time to get all done I might do in stages or get a friend to help