1992 bb1 h22a si-vtec jdm import-updated 31/5/16

[GJMHONDA2012]

IMO, don't read the 0.41 as the tps being faulty when off - that's just as easily stray current and multimeter accuracy.

Were you testing the tps as per the manual? (i.e. at exactly the point in the circuit where it told you to test it?)

And were you testing it with the engine running or just off the battery? If your battery voltage was low (which 10v is) then your readings from the tps will also be low anyway.

I had the ignition off for continuity test and the then ignition on when I done power test and signal output to Ecu which is meant to be 0.5v when closed and 4.5v when throttle is fully opened but mine only read 3.76v when it was fully opened but as for the battery it's a yuasa battery and it's not that old only bought it end of last year

[GJMHONDA2012]

Right guys I need some help again, I've done a voltage test on my lude today and here's results
First test of the day(car has not been started since yesterday)

Second test with engine running

3rd test engine running with load on battery ie headlights,heaters, rear demister and hazards

4th test is everything turned off and engine turned off after running for 10 minutes

[Merlin]

3rd test engine running with load on battery ie headlights,heaters, rear demister and hazards

To me that looks like your alternator is not putting out enough. At full load it should be putting out more than 12V


Edit - where are you measuring this? On the battery or off the alternator terminal?

[mercutio]

should be putting out 14v

[GJMHONDA2012]

3rd test engine running with load on battery ie headlights,heaters, rear demister and hazards

To me that looks like your alternator is not putting out enough. At full load it should be putting out more than 12V


Edit - where are you measuring this? On the battery or off the alternator terminal?

it was off the battery terminals

[GJMHONDA2012]

should be putting out 14v

its definitely not putting out 14v

[GJMHONDA2012]

Plus I'm not sure how to test the alternator

[wurlycorner]

You test it by sticking the meter across the battery terminals, as you have done.

Check your multimeter against someone else's car while that's running, to make sure it shows 14+v. If it does, your alternator is tired (or the battery/alternator/ground connection terminals are high resistance due to being dirty/corroded). If it still shows 12v, either you're very unlucky picking another car with a knackered alternator, or your multimeter is reading incorrectly...

[GJMHONDA2012]

You test it by sticking the meter across the battery terminals, as you have done.

Check your multimeter against someone else's car while that's running, to make sure it shows 14+v. If it does, your alternator is tired (or the battery/alternator/ground connection terminals are high resistance due to being dirty/corroded). If it still shows 12v, either you're very unlucky picking another car with a knackered alternator, or your multimeter is reading incorrectly...

Ok mate I'll try multimeter on another motor see if it's that

[GJMHONDA2012]

Right well today I changed the alternator for a known working one and guess what it's reading the exact same voltage as the last one 12.9v with it running and 11.92v with a load on it so either my voltage meter is goosed or it's somethingelse I've removed all the grounding wires and I'm going to clean them all up properly and insulate them abit better on the exposed parts and I've used a wire brush attachment on my battery drill to get down to bare metal so hopefully this will help are there any more grounding points that I could remove and properly clean up I've removed the wires from the battery and the wires were it bolts onto the rocker cover and engine mount