BrokenSprings new Toy - now replaced

[BrokenSpring]

Hello All

So i figured its time to get a profile up and start documenting my work.
The car is a 1999 Honda Prelude 2.2 vti
I bought this car at the start of Nov 2015 on 121K.
It has 17" OEM Wheels
My Fiancee has taken upon herself to name her Bullit.....not sure how i feel bout that.

The paintwork is in very good condition with no major scratches, but there are a number of light scuffs that polish out nicely.
The rest of the car is in great condition with no advisories on the MOT. But we shall see if that’s really the case once i start digging into it

Here are a few starting pics, taken in the wet unfortunately. More pics to follow when we get a dry day here.









Work To Be Completed

1. Full service and check-up of the car.
2. New front brakes and pads - Done
3. Install double din - Pumpkin double din installed
4. Carbon up the wood effect items.
5. Full rust check
6. Front mud guards - ordered
7. Good clean and polish
8. New gear knob and gaiter - Done
9. Replace fuel lines from tank to engine.- On hold for now
10. New backbox or exhaust system
11. Underseal everything - waiting for summer
12. Motegi Kit
13. New front lights
14. Handbrake adjustment

Questions for the pros

A) Is it worth replacing the fuel lines so they are full metal lines again? It had a fuel leak with the prev owner and was repaired with some rubber fuel lines. The rubber fixed lines are making me pretty nervous but have been quoted about £150 to do the full lines. The garage said they would buy the pipe and custom bend it to the right shape to save costs

B) Will i gain anything by replacing the oem air filter and box with a closed induction like the pipercross viper or similar?

C) The car has a weird idle issue which is usually more apparent when its warmed up. When sat idling the rpm will drop to almost nothing and then back up to 700 ish then 20 sec or so drop again. keeps dropping at random intervals. It's never stalled it's self but feels like it's almost stalling.

D) The handbrake needs to be pulled right to the top to keep the car stationary when stopped on a hill. Is it a big job to replace the handbrake cable and adjust to a lower point?

E) Where would be the best place to get a motegi bodykit from?

F) i would like to get a new exhaust as the one i have is cheap rubbish (and rusting ontop already), what good exhausts would you recommend?

G) Has anyone fitted these guys onto their 5th gen ? Are they worth upgrading to?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/97-01-Honda-P ... XQ01tRN6xG

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/97-01-Honda-P ... H9u4GOUXug

H) Where can i get some new fobbs cheaply? Like the 2 or 3 button grey ones. Or do i just have to lump it and pay 25 on ebay for them?

[indigolemon]

Questions for the pros

A) Is it worth replacing the fuel lines so they are full metal lines again? It had a fuel leak with the prev owner and was repaired with some rubber fuel lines. The rubber fixed lines are making me pretty nervous but have been quoted about £150 to do the full lines. The garage said they would buy the pipe and custom bend it to the right shape to save costs

B) Will i gain anything by replacing the oem air filter and box with a closed induction like the pipercross viper or similar?

C) The car has a weird idle issue which is usually more apparent when its warmed up. When sat idling the rpm will drop to almost nothing and then back up to 700 ish then 20 sec or so drop again. keeps dropping at random intervals. It's never stalled it's self but feels like it's almost stalling.

D) The handbrake needs to be pulled right to the top to keep the car stationary when stopped on a hill. Is it a big job to replace the handbrake cable and adjust to a lower point?

She looks stunning! Very clean indeed.

A - Where is the repair? What is the extent of the rubber hose?

B - I'd replace your paper panel filter with a Pipercross or K&N one, and leave it at that. You should have the best intake system already given the cars age/engine.

C - Could be a vacuum leak perhaps? Any missing/split vacuum hoses under the bonnet?

D - What adjustment is left on the handbrake? A lot of people adjust these wrong and cause issues. You should back the adjuster right off till it's slack, then pump the brakes a few times, then you use the adjuster to take up the slack. It's due to the rear caliper having the handbrake mech built into it. Most people get it wrong and simply beef up the adjuster without slackening off first and pumping the brakes to seat everything correctly.

[BrokenSpring]

Questions for the pros

A) Is it worth replacing the fuel lines so they are full metal lines again? It had a fuel leak with the prev owner and was repaired with some rubber fuel lines. The rubber fixed lines are making me pretty nervous but have been quoted about £150 to do the full lines. The garage said they would buy the pipe and custom bend it to the right shape to save costs

B) Will i gain anything by replacing the oem air filter and box with a closed induction like the pipercross viper or similar?

C) The car has a weird idle issue which is usually more apparent when its warmed up. When sat idling the rpm will drop to almost nothing and then back up to 700 ish then 20 sec or so drop again. keeps dropping at random intervals. It's never stalled it's self but feels like it's almost stalling.

D) The handbrake needs to be pulled right to the top to keep the car stationary when stopped on a hill. Is it a big job to replace the handbrake cable and adjust to a lower point?

She looks stunning! Very clean indeed.

A - Where is the repair? What is the extent of the rubber hose?

B - I'd replace your paper panel filter with a Pipercross or K&N one, and leave it at that. You should have the best intake system already given the cars age/engine.

C - Could be a vacuum leak perhaps? Any missing/split vacuum hoses under the bonnet?

D - What adjustment is left on the handbrake? A lot of people adjust these wrong and cause issues. You should back the adjuster right off till it's slack, then pump the brakes a few times, then you use the adjuster to take up the slack. It's due to the rear caliper having the handbrake mech built into it. Most people get it wrong and simply beef up the adjuster without slackening off first and pumping the brakes to seat everything correctly.

Ah brilliant, thank you for the quick reply.
With me not having a garage and working in the week most of my work will have to be done at the weekends in the light.
A) i will get a picture of the repaired section tonight if i can get under, but when i had it in with my garage they said it was near the tank.
B)so not worht the £150 cost of the replacement system, just a god quality pannel filter?
C) no missing or split hoses that i can see, but once its not raining and light i will go though them all in greater detail. Thank you for the pointer.
D) Will get the centr console up and give that a try.

[Merlin]

A) i will get a picture of the repaired section tonight if i can get under, but when i had it in with my garage they said it was near the tank.

Don't worry about it. This was done to my 5th gen just this weekend and my 4th gen about 2 years ago.

[indigolemon]

This ^ If it's the bit near the tank it's a common one. Had to do that on my Prelude and my Mum's Accord.

[BrokenSpring]

This ^ If it's the bit near the tank it's a common one. Had to do that on my Prelude and my Mum's Accord.

A) i will get a picture of the repaired section tonight if i can get under, but when i had it in with my garage they said it was near the tank.

Don't worry about it. This was done to my 5th gen just this weekend and my 4th gen about 2 years ago.

Ah i see thank you both, so a common issue with these.
I am planning on doing a few track days next year once the weather improves. Will the repaired lines be ok for them too or would the £150 to get new lines put in be worth it?
Or is that way too much for that type of job?

[Merlin]

I am planning on doing a few track days next year once the weather improves. Will the repaired lines be ok

It will be fine. I doubt you will abuse your car any more than what my 4th gen gets

[wurlycorner]

A) metal is better, but not essential - depends on the quality and extent of the current repair.
C) check the coolant is bled properly. Then check the fitv in case the seat is loose.
D) as indigo has said, bound to just be an adjustment issue, rather than needing a new cable.

[BrokenSpring]

A) metal is better, but not essential - depends on the quality and extent of the current repair.
C) check the coolant is bled properly. Then check the fitv in case the seat is loose.
D) as indigo has said, bound to just be an adjustment issue, rather than needing a new cable.

Ok this weekend is filling up already. Thank you for all you advice so far, i have added a few more questions to the first post.
This weekend i will look into the following
1. Install Pumpkin double din.
2. Fit front mud guards
3. Properly adjust handbrake.
4. check the coolant is bled properly. Then check the fitv in case the seat is loose.
5. Get under her (oo errr) and assess rush and petrol lines repair. Pictures incoming.
6. Check all hoses for any damage or splits.

gooo team!!!

[Drax]

nice one, remember if you are going to the JDM North meet next Saturday (5th) I can take a look at anything for you as im going too.