Jay's 3rd Gen Build

[Greg]

I know it's a swear word but I'd ring up the dealer and ask if they still have the equipment to carry out a brake fluid change. I say this because there are parts of the system that a pedal pump and nipple flush won't replenish. Honda identify a box called an alb activator or something like that. It opens up the solenoids and activates the pump. Thus flushing more fluid out, it's never 100% but I find the old fashioned method no good on abs cars. If there is air trapped in the system no amount of pump and nipple will get rid of it. With our cars getting on a bit I can almost guarantee nearly all haven't had a proper brake fluid change in years. Spongy brakes are my absolute biggest pet peeve with cars and it's an issue I'm currently tackling on my land rover. The point I'm making is luckily for us the 3g alb system is straight forward enough to diagnose and fix. I'd get your brake fluid flushed for peace of mind. If you have a faulty wheel sensor the alb light will come on and stay on once you go over I think 15mph. If your getting a squeaky noise coming from under the bonnet every time you set off from cold for about 5 seconds it's the solenoids pressurizing the system and probably will have an airlock. Whatever you do get the fluid replaced by the dealer, it's not going to break the bank and at least you know it's been done properly.

[wurlycorner]

A normal brake fluid flush/change is absolutely fine for changing the fluid in all of the braking system, without needing an alb test box, but... What that doesn't do, is change the fluid in the pump/accumulator/solenoid valves, because they are a completely seperate curcuit (never the twain meet).

[jay m3]

Thanks for the help here guys. Ok so i got to the led code. This is the sequence:
3 rapid blinks 1 second pause then 13 rapid blinks
Did this 3 times same sequence

Any suggestions?

[wurlycorner]

3-13 is "Front Right Pulser"
Helpfully... There is no diagnosis chart for the 3 "pulser" fault codes!


But... Reading further on in the manual, the "pulser" is the toothed ring on the driveshaft (front - or hub on the rear).

Suggest that is either dirty, missing or damaged etc. or the gap between the sensor and ring is out of spec. So have a good look (incl. all round the ring) and see what you can find

[Metalhead]

What Iain said! First check for rust and damage on your ring! Apparently you can have a new ring if yours is damaged beyond repair!

[jay m3]

Hi Iain, what makes you say it's the front right pulsor? Or could it be front or rear? Metalhead, let's say this 'toothed ring' is damaged or missing where do i get another?

[Metalhead]

Hi Iain, what makes you say it's the front right pulsor? Or could it be front or rear? Metalhead, let's say this 'toothed ring' is damaged or missing where do i get another?

Look at the diagnostic sheet that Iain has posted - you'll see the 3-13 is front right, 3-14 is front left and 3-15 is rear (could be either). If your error is 3-13 then it's def. drivers front wheel.

It looks like the replacement ring is available....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131038801873? ... rmvSB=true

Reckon on 1-2 hours labour to get the driveshaft out, remove the corroded/damaged ring and fit the new one. No doubt you'll need a garage with a decent hydraulic press!

[wurlycorner]

Well I'm confused by your post jay...

[jay m3]

Well I'm confused by your post jay...

Haha just read my post & it confused me too!

[damon]

Nipple flush