New Boy

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 1:18 pm

Were you using a paperclip on the jumper plug?
Believe it or not, it is possible to find non-conductive paperclips!

The jumper plug is quite sensitive to having a good connection. It's possible to get none, or only one of the ECU's go into fault code reading mode if you don't get a good conection, so have a good fiddle around with it.

hondaman · Post by **hondaman** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:19 pm

Cheers for the info Iain, i'll have another look at it and yes it was a paper clip

Raggagirl · Post by **Raggagirl** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:20 pm

Welcome!

Post by **indigolemon** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:22 pm

If the ABS is a code 1, then that won't affect the 4WS, so you might find you get a code from the 4WS light pointing you somewhere else. I am a self confessed 4WS aficionado, so if it's a simple fix, I'd go for that first before ripping it out

Oh, and welcome!

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:31 pm

Welcome to the club, mate. I'm sure you'll find all the answers you need here, somewhere!

hondaman · Post by **hondaman** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:24 pm

indigolemon wrote:If the ABS is a code 1, then that won't affect the 4WS, so you might find you get a code from the 4WS light pointing you somewhere else. I am a self confessed 4WS aficionado, so if it's a simple fix, I'd go for that first before ripping it out

Oh, and welcome!

I've been reading about the ECU for the 4WS and poor soldering, so when i get a mo' i'm going to pull it out and have a look inside and hopefully it'll be a pretty easy fix, if not i'll be pulling out the 4ws as the light came on again today just after i started car go to come home its really starting to bug me now thats almost every day this week now

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:29 pm

As indigo says, give it your best shot first. Its very easy to bin the 4WS system when theres not much wrong with it. In fact, the only true fault I know of is the dry solder one and its a simple fix if you're handy with a soldering iron.
90% of the rest you will read about is scaremongering or frankly people not knowing anything about the system and getting scared.
More often than not, it shuts down as a safety feature due to something else like an abs sensor or even a duff bulb.
Hey, if you dont like it after driving with a properly working system thats your call, Id just recommend you give it a chance first.

If I can help, I'll gladly chip in.

hondaman · Post by **hondaman** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:51 am

bennyboy wrote:As indigo says, give it your best shot first. Its very easy to bin the 4WS system when theres not much wrong with it. In fact, the only true fault I know of is the dry solder one and its a simple fix if you're handy with a soldering iron.
90% of the rest you will read about is scaremongering or frankly people not knowing anything about the system and getting scared.
More often than not, it shuts down as a safety feature due to something else like an abs sensor or even a duff bulb.
Hey, if you dont like it after driving with a properly working system thats your call, Id just recommend you give it a chance first.

If I can help, I'll gladly chip in.

Thank you for the info, i managed to get a fault code of it this morning when i got to work, the first set of codes flash so fast its hard to count them.....
But it seems to be 10 very fast then 2 slow flashes, i've just had a look on wiki and got this

12 Sub Steering Angle Sensor Front 26,21 CU, FSSAS, HC

FSSAS - Front Sub Steering Angle Sensor

CU - 4WS Control Unit

HC - Harness Connector

So I suppose my question is does HC Harness Connector refer to where it plugs into the rear steering assembly or into the ECU in the rear of the car, i think either way i'm going to pull the ECU out over the weekend and have a look at the soldering, just to settle my own mind on it, also i'm due to have the alignment done Saturday morning just to make sure its not the steering angle sensor playing up as the wheelk is about an 1/8 off to the right when the wheels are dead ahead.

Than kyou in advance for help with this,

Sorry this is getting a bit long , so mods if you want to move it to a more appropriate place please feel free

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 8:08 am

The extremely fast flashes could be the identifier when it swaps from the main ecu to the sub ecu, rather than being a code 1x
Difficult to tell from just a description on t'interweb. Can you take a video and post it? We can tell you then.

If you read the fault flow charts in the service manual (downloadable link is in the wiki), then it explains how to fault find each fault code (including where to look) in good detail.

hondaman · Post by **hondaman** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:11 am

wurlycorner wrote:The extremely fast flashes could be the identifier when it swaps from the main ecu to the sub ecu, rather than being a code 1x
Difficult to tell from just a description on t'interweb. Can you take a video and post it? We can tell you then.

If you read the fault flow charts in the service manual (downloadable link is in the wiki), then it explains how to fault find each fault code (including where to look) in good detail.

Cheers Iain, i'll do a video over weekend