Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
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New Guy!
- wurlycorner
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Exactly as Merlin said.
If you're looking to pay someone to do an H22 rebuild for you, just on stock spec you'll be sticking over £1k into the engine in parts/labour (and that's without removal/refitting)
You can buy a replacement used H22 for a third of that.
How hard do you plan on using the car/how many miles will you be running it for?
If you're looking to pay someone to do an H22 rebuild for you, just on stock spec you'll be sticking over £1k into the engine in parts/labour (and that's without removal/refitting)
You can buy a replacement used H22 for a third of that.
How hard do you plan on using the car/how many miles will you be running it for?
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Iain.
Iain.
Super Secret 1G (not really super secret!)
Ah fair enough thanks mate, well i might just leave the engine well alone if it runs fine and has no obvious issues, and just stick to replacing all the fluids etc and everything you said, 4 new shocks etc. I will though get the cambelt pump and tensioners done though as it seams to be a rule of thumb of mine when i buy a second hand motor. although it may be in the service history, you never know..so i tend to do it so i have piece of mind in the knowledge that ive had the last Cambelt and tensioners done etc and its due in X amount of miles.Merlin wrote:TBH unless there is something glaringly wrong with the engine I would leave it well alone. Over 100,000 miles is nothing to fear. Engine wear is the least of your problems when owning a 20 year old Prelude. Rust, worn suspension / duff ball joints and bushes, old fluids are the things to focus on IMO.Merlin wrote:So a question to all, How much roughly would an engine rebuild cost if i sourced the parts? Because if i get one with 110k + mileage i might get a rebuild done.
WHat type of BHP are people running in their BB4s? i noticed on ebay there is a forged engine for sale for £2500 quid lol.. claiming 500+ BHP. So just wandering what other people are running, going to spend some time later going through peoples theads etc and get some idea of things that can go wrong and also any small mods i may be able to adapt.
- Merlin
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The BB4 has the same 197bhp H22a engine that JDM BB1's have. With a decent exhaust manifold, exhaust, plus a chip for the standard ECU you should see 215ish. If you want more add an Accord Type-R intake manifold with a larger throttle body, and a tunable ECU and you should be in the 220-230 range. If you want more power than that you will be looking at higher comp pistons and upgrading the valve train. Any more than that and your are looking at investing a lot of cash (not just on the engine but everything else too).
I have an all motor NA engine in my 4th gen which is a beast! but my road Prelude's engine (H22a8) is untouched. The Prelude, even with engine work, is never going to the the fastest of cars. IMO what you buy a Prelude for is the handling (which is great), and to look a cool MOFO
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I have an all motor NA engine in my 4th gen which is a beast! but my road Prelude's engine (H22a8) is untouched. The Prelude, even with engine work, is never going to the the fastest of cars. IMO what you buy a Prelude for is the handling (which is great), and to look a cool MOFO


- bennyboy
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Welcome!
As the others have said, IF it's been looked after, mileage is not an issue really.
My original engine came out at 176k (through choice) and went on to save another car!
As for spec, it's many and varied on here.
Some are running superchargers (but only in their garage)
My profile is in my sig, but there are lots, under the Lude profiles section of the forum.
As the others have said, IF it's been looked after, mileage is not an issue really.
My original engine came out at 176k (through choice) and went on to save another car!

As for spec, it's many and varied on here.
Some are running superchargers (but only in their garage)


My profile is in my sig, but there are lots, under the Lude profiles section of the forum.

Fair enough, thanks mateMerlin wrote:The BB4 has the same 197bhp H22a engine that JDM BB1's have. With a decent exhaust manifold, exhaust, plus a chip for the standard ECU you should see 215ish. If you want more add an Accord Type-R intake manifold with a larger throttle body, and a tunable ECU and you should be in the 220-230 range. If you want more power than that you will be looking at higher comp pistons and upgrading the valve train. Any more than that and your are looking at investing a lot of cash (not just on the engine but everything else too).
I have an all motor NA engine in my 4th gen which is a beast! but my road Prelude's engine (H22a8) is untouched. The Prelude, even with engine work, is never going to the the fastest of cars. IMO what you buy a Prelude for is the handling (which is great), and to look a cool MOFO![]()
.

Is it better to chip or remap them?
So theres a lot of home brew mods out there tho and tbh im not out for massive BHPs or anything but yeah, i mean my FTO GPX was quick but i don't think its as quick as the preludes tbh. engine was completely standard on that too and just had breather mods like a HKS induction kit and a HKS Superdragger exhaust system.
To be honest though, going off parkers facts and figures, there not slow by any stretch are they. from what ive seen 6.6 seconds 0-60? is not slow by any stretch.
Hi mate, thanks for the welcomebennyboy wrote:Welcome!
As the others have said, IF it's been looked after, mileage is not an issue really.
My original engine came out at 176k (through choice) and went on to save another car!![]()
As for spec, it's many and varied on here.
Some are running superchargers (but only in their garage)![]()
![]()
My profile is in my sig, but there are lots, under the Lude profiles section of the forum.




Hm well i have a choice really then dont ayeVtecmec wrote:bennyboy wrote:Some are running superchargers (but only in their garage)![]()
Personally, I'd be looking for a BB1, which is the same as the BB4 except has 4WS as well, which is just awesome.

- wurlycorner
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You can't remap standard Honda ECU's unfortunately - the chip is the remap. And only costs £15 off the forum, plus someone good at soldering.Jordyn89 wrote:Is it better to chip or remap them?
To remap you have to buy a re mappable ECU, of which there are several options out there... Neptune, Chrome, Hondata, AEM (going up in price in that order IIRC?)
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Iain.
Iain.
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OnlineVtecmec
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Donald wrote:Following that logic, do you prefer women without breasts?

Not really, the system is pretty reliable, and when it does have an issue, fixing is typically straight forward. Mine is 23 years old an the 4WS works perfectly.Jordyn89 wrote:but the 4WS system, doesnt that mean more parts can go wrong? lol
