Torneo euro r

Post by **newkid** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 7:32 pm

wurlycorner wrote:

Off what? It looks the same

Hopefully a few updates on this once parts arrive.

Post by **newkid** » Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:21 pm

Well check the state of this.

That's whats left of the silly coil thing that was installed in Japan between the head and the inlet manifold. Its 2 thin pieces of metal with a solid rubber center(this was roughly an inch thick and has went brittle) and metal dowels. A proper oem paper gasket was used to hold it in place but tiger seal was also used making it an absolute nightmare to be removed/clean head for new gasket.

A thermal gasket is now in its place and at last the car no longer hunts at idle. Result! Also did the throttle body gasket with a new thermal one as well.

The rear mount which I'm sure was causing my vibrations when car turned off and clunking/bangs when changing gear has been replaced with a innovative rear mount (75a), car now no longer does the mentioned bits above but from standing start shakes the whole dash

. This was only quickly fitted and proper install procedure is still to be followed which I'm sure will cut most of that down.

I also have the gearbox mount to match and just ordered the front mount. Gearbox one might be left off till i find out if the engine mount one on the euro-r is the same as the one innovative sell for the US accord as its a different part number, rear and gearbox are the same part numbers, front cross references on some sites as being the same part number so hopefully the engine one is same and then I'll be running a full set of uprated mounts

The only downside to everything done is the resulting EML due to the knock sensor snapping as the inlet coil thing was removed, ordered one up so hopefully be here soon

Post by **vanzep** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:34 pm

all that stuff youve removed looks really shitty

nice work getting that all taken out

give it some time for new mounts to settle in

mart609 · Post by **mart609** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 5:46 pm

wow, just wow

Post by **newkid** » Thu Nov 16, 2017 2:36 pm

Knock sensor changed. Reset of ecu by disconnecting battery and cars back to normal with no eml.

Post by **norks27** » Thu Nov 16, 2017 2:48 pm

Result - SWEET

Post by **newkid** » Sat Nov 18, 2017 2:19 pm

newkid wrote: An a extra wee bonus if I can get it wired up to work since the standard stereo is changed, bose sub and amp

Yup. Got it all working. Plenty say it can’t be done

All you need is one of these.

Little write up, no pics I’m afraid.

The 12 pin connector that’s behind the stereo (plugged into the original bose stereo). You want to remove that. It will take you all the way to the equaliser under the passenger seat. From memory the antenna cable is taped to it so that goes with it (don’t worry it goes back). Once you have all the wiring at the passenger seat untape it all and unplug it from the equaliser (Equaliser can be removed and binned) the aeriel cable you can reroute back up to behind stereo. The green plug that you unplugged from the equaliser so many of the wires are connected to the 12 pin connector. There’s 3 wires that branch of onto another loom that don’t go to the 12 pin connector, these 3 actually go to the amp. One is sub+, one is sub-, and one is a earth wire to stop interference. The sub+(Light green) and sub-(green/white) you connect to the rca + and -. After you’ve done that reroute it back up behind the stereo (cables long enough). Plug the rca into headunits subwoofer connection and earth the interference cable(brown/yellow). That’s you all set to go. In your stereos controls turn on the hpf at 125hz. This stops the bass going to speakers as sub is now doing this. You may want to change some settings for the subwoofer out (mine I set it to 125hz and below and turned the output level up)

Post by **newkid** » Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:48 am

Went up to Crail with vanzep and rossco d

Set a best time of 15.07s which considering the stated estimated book time is 15.1s means the car is performing as it should.

Off the line the car performed great but its definitely needing a bit more grunt higher up the rev range as that's when most cars either pulled me in or managed to pass me.

Overall I'm quite happy with the times as the car is still fully loaded with a/c etc (don't plan on changing this either) and completely standard. Not bad for a big family 4 door saloon that's n/a

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Nov 20, 2017 1:01 pm

So have you finally beaten vanzep now?

Lude Generation

Torneo euro r

Re: Torneo Euro-r

Thermal gaskets/rear innovative mount

Knock sensor change

Rear factory sub wiring to aftermarket stereo

Crail Raceway - My fastest 1/4 mile