Wiring up original amp for centre subwoof 4th gen

[frenchnickers]

Well finally got hold of a decent centre subwoof speaker cover, bracket, original amp with connector and pigtails for T's lude.
I'm after using the original amp to power a 6x9 subwoof for the kenwood system thats just gone in.

Need some info if anyone can help please.
Firstly does anyone know the power of the amp, or what wattage and ohms the original 6x9 subwoof speaker was.
(i'm assuming the amp itself is probably around the 100w range)

Also does anyone have a wiring code for the connector joined to the amp.
(at work at the moment, but I can put a photo up of what wiring/colours ect are coming out of the connector)

There are more wires than expected, and more than when I did the accords bose one a while ago
(does it power more than just the sub in the dsp system?)

Thanks guys!

[wurlycorner]

Hi,

I have one of the original 6x9 sub's out of the car at home atm, so I can check what specs it gives tonight if you like.
It's a very low impedance speaker I remember that - I think it's 2ohm, but will confirm tonight.

The amp is very low power, you can tell that just by how small it is.

The wiring for it is shown in the USDM service manual;

[K30DPC]

Yeah 100W from this small box. Keep dreaming matey.

Speaker itself is TS-09051 made in Japan so probably unable to find new one and it's 2OHM 30W but high efficiency. So if you go and buy any 6x9 2ohm 30W it won't be any close to OEM.
IMHO your only option is get one from wurlycorner

[wurlycorner]

You wouldn't want mine, I've taken it out because it's knackered! (cone suspension is torn)

I'm hunting a decent like-like 6x9 low ohm woofer replacement too. For the moment I've chucked an Alpine 6x9 in there which is only 4ohm resistance and goes down to 40Hz (lowest on both counts that I've seen for a full range speaker so seemed like the best available option) but tbh it's barely audible. Just that extra couple of ohms seems to be enough to limit the amp output to nothing useful.


Seeing as the amp simply takes a bridged signal off the standard back speakers though and my rear speakers have also been changed (not by me) my thinking is that it might be a combination of things affecting it though; i.e. if the replacement rear speakers had a lower impedance than the original ones, the amp would recieve lower than intended input signal and hence its output would be similarly reduced. I haven't looked into that in practise yet, though.

[K30DPC]

If it's only membrane/coil suspension I would rather fix it then change for aftermarket one.
And rear speakers impedance have not much to do with this how your sub working.

[frenchnickers]

Excellent info and diagrams there, cheers guys!
The bose amp for the sub out of the accord is pretty much identical size and that is 100 w, so I was kind of hoping

have been watching this on the bay and wondered if it might be any good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141079974224? ... 1438.l2649

Also I'd be presumably taking the feed from the rca subwoof out on the back of the stereo, and rewiring it to the speaker wires on the amp connector, rather than coming off the rear speakers.
Does this have and effect on what ohm speaker to use?

[K30DPC]

this will not work as on RCA you have low level output signal. JDM subwoofer amp is using high level input signal. In best case scenario your sub will be very quiet

[frenchnickers]

So best to forget the original amp altogether then? and get a new amp to power a 6x9 sub using rca feed from stereo.

[wurlycorner]

And rear speakers impedance have not much to do with this how your sub working.

Not in a normal aftermarket setup no, but like I was saying if you look at the wiring diagram I posted above, on the oem install, the amp is bridged across the rear speaker connections (which still run the rear speakers) giving you a parallel circuit. So impedance of the rear speakers will also affect the current that flows through the amp.

[K30DPC]

well it's gonna be dificult because of language barrier. But I will try

First thing is: low impedance stuff needs current when high impedance stuff needs voltage.

OEM speakers are 4ohms. And amplifier built into your radio must be 4ohm stable.If you will change them for 8ohm ones nothing will happend except you will be unable to archive the same output power. If you go oposite and use 2ohm speakers then in theory output power will rise but also risk of amplifier (built in radio) damage. Most of the amplifiers built in radios are working in bridge mode and most of them aren't 2ohm stable. So at the end of the day using different then OEM impedance speakers afecting our amplifier but the one in our radio.

Then you wanna connect OEM sub. It has built in amplifier which input impedance is 10kohm (10000ohm) or even up to 100kohm. As we can see many times more then speakers impedance.

If we connect both into our radio output they will be seen in totally different way. I would say speaker will drain the current from radio, and sub amplifier will use only voltage. Now changing speaker impedance amplifier "will adjust" needed current but voltage remain the same. Like I said if you go with higher impedance then current will drop which is still safe instead of going with lower impedance. But output voltage remains the same. So how this will affect sub amplifier?

So best to forget the original amp altogether then? and get a new amp to power a 6x9 sub using rca feed from stereo.

TBH this is almost what I did. I have OEM sub with loom but I'm not using it.
But I have used 10inch vibe speaker for now. I will buy in future 8inch sundown subwoofer which is 2x4ohm. In parallel that makes 2ohm and then I will power this from DLS A6 amplifier which makes around 800W. I'm not saying this is the best what you can get but I can recommend this as it's really good set IMHO.
The only one bad think is you loosing part of your trunk