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WANTED P13 ECU

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DaveRobbo82
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WANTED P13 ECU

Post by DaveRobbo82 » Thu Mar 10, 2016 6:49 pm

I have a h22a engine with p13 ecu which I think is fooked. I recently swapped my 2.0 for a h22a and p13 ecu but I'm getting code 20 and 22. Nothing wrong with the eld and iv tried the bridging of the oil pressure switch but the ecu light won't sod off. So I'm thinking the ecu is crap. Any one selling a p13 or what ever will go with the engine. Before a match gets placed on a puddle of petrol
Cheers Dave
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4thgenphil
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Post by 4thgenphil » Thu Mar 10, 2016 9:06 pm

Whats the motor and ecu out of?
:thumbdown:

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Merlin
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Post by Merlin » Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:22 pm

@Indigolemon is down with this sort of thing.

@DaveRobbo82 I assume the internal loom will need to be modified to allow the ECU to connect to the VTEC solenoid, have you done this?
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Post by wurlycorner » Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:27 pm

Thread discussing this here merlin
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/electri ... 18235.html
Not had confirmation of the checks suggested being done/ok yet.

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Post by indigolemon » Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:29 pm

ELD is annoying, but should be a hidden code (not throwing a CEL). I lived with it :D

VTEC solenoid - assuming your H22 has the full wiring loom, you just need to splice the relevant wire from the ecu connector to the strut top connector and you should be sorted. Can't remember offhand what one it is, but the workshop manual should help there.
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Post by bennyboy » Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:38 pm

Merlin wrote:@indigolemon is down with this sort of thing.
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Post by wurlycorner » Fri Mar 11, 2016 1:15 pm

DaveRobbo82 wrote:Nothing wrong with the eld and iv tried the bridging of the oil pressure switch but the ecu light won't sod off. So I'm thinking the ecu is crap.
Or the wiring to the vtec oil pressure switch is no good, which is why I suggested you check that out properly.

As well as belling it out, there is a trouble-shooting guide on page 6-7 of the first supplement to the service manual.
Tells you how to check the oil pressure switch (in normal position) and check for voltage on the correct pin of the connector.
If you have no voltage, it will either be a wiring problem (see above/other thread...) or if that is ok then it would confirm the ecu is drokked.
However, ecu's don't die for no reason, hence still important to make sure you check all the wiring correctly before plugging in another one.

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Post by DaveRobbo82 » Fri Mar 11, 2016 1:49 pm

The engine and ecu were out of a bb4. Mines a bb3. Iv added a wire to the solenoid and a wire to the oil pressure switch and a ground wire. But still get the cel light. What do you mean "belling out"? Cheers

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Post by wurlycorner » Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:05 pm

Continuity (or resistance) check with a multi-meter. One probe on one end of the wire and the other probe on the other end of the wire. That proves that the wire goes from the right place at one end, to the right place at the other end, with no break in the wire.
Then you also check from one end of the wire, to ground, which proves there is no short to ground.
You should also check from one pin on the pressure switch to the other pin (with both ends disconnected) to make sure that there is no short from one wire to the other.

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Post by DaveRobbo82 » Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:37 pm

Cheers. I'll have a good look over it tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

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