Wow. Some great responses here. Thanks chaps.
by Neo »Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:21 am
I just did this a couple weeks ago.....
.....I went with a KS tuned manual tensioner since it was about the same cost and more reliable.
...... I cash is the problem, and your seals are still good, I think you can get away with just replacing the cambelt, balance shaft belt, water pump, and tensioner.
Cheers Neo. This sounds a pretty good compromise.
by Froidas »Tue Mar 05, 2013 6:14 am
If you can't spend too much, then Neo last suggestion is really good.
But If you would like to change everything you need on that side of engine and forget for several years - you also need to change belt bearings. And DON'T stick with auto tensioner...... ......but if you need any help, you can write me a PM. I made photos when I did this and I will try to help. It doesn't matter, but mine is H22A8.
And what crank pulley are you going to put? My suggestion......
Thanks a lot for this Froidas. Although I've done some basic spannering I'm getting Honda to do this (even given the money issue!) because the overall job is a monster (I've seen detailed write-ups) at least for me at the moment, and an auto-disaster right now would be very bad news.
Regarding your tensioner point (and granted you obviously know a hell of a lot more about this than I do!) after a lot of thought I decided to go auto because PAW suggested they were fine if replaced with the belt on a standard engine, and also because it's one less thing for me to worry about adjusting. I reckon that link will be pretty useful to anyone who wants one though.
Still thinking about the crank pulley.... Not sure if I won't risk this one. Will probably cost it and then decide. Appreciate the post(s)
by wurlycorner »Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:18 am
Standard auto tensioner is absolutely fine for a non heavily tuned engine.
How many preludes out there on 100k+, 20 year old engines running auto tensioners? Loads! If he's renewing the tensioner, there's no risk..... Don't worry about that. (Otherwise you'll have more expense getting it all stripped down again to check the tension on the manual tensioner a little way down the line...)
Aha! Yes, you and that nice PAW man.
Everyone always says about changing the water pump..... .....but again, how many of these actually fail?
There have been a few crank pulleys go, but again......, ......I do wish I'd had seals changed, but they weren't (and aren't) leaking so that was only a piece of mind thing.
Thanks, Iain/Wurly. Confirming a few things I've heard suggested before and I think you see exactly where I'm coming from. The one bloke who recognises Preludes at Pheonix Honda told me not to bother with the water pump as "It's a Honda. They never break" - obviously an exaggeration but....
Hope you're in a position to get the JDM sorted soon.
Cheers.
by Merlin »Tue Mar 05, 2013 11:43 am
Also doesnt the auto tensioner need a special tool to fit it?
That's OK. I have been called both in the past
As I say despite the cost Honda are doing it so I care not.
Cheers
by Dbo »Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:13 pm
please make sure you do the waterpump. the answer to wurley is all of them fail.....
.......everytime i have ever heard of a waterpump going all have said but my belts were only done recently
Thanks Dbo. Now I'm confused though! *sigh*
OK!
SO.... I think I have a kind of plan, which may or many not be correct or proportional to the risk, but is a plan nonetheless.....
Replace Both Belts & Tensioner (Still auto

)
Next, if at all possible replace water pump. (EDIT: But don't necessarily panic if not!)
Next, if still within budget look at crank pulley.
Finally sort the seals if I catch the garage when a gullible temp. is operating the till. (EDIT: Or before everything except Belts/tensioner if leaking).
Then drive it like I stole it.
Dissent, Argument, Thoughts?
PS. Sorry for any misrepresentation in precis.
Thanks again everyone. Appreciated.
EDIT: Thanks AdrianH2B - noted! (HOW MUCH for a water pump! Feck me!)
