Pulling to the left

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 16, 2013 1:07 pm

I tried removing the 4ws fuse and it did nothing. yeah the 62 is the resolder fix, but i have done that on the old ecu 3 times, fixes it for a while then goes bad again after a few days. might be my dodgy soldering, but i want to know for sure that the ecu is still the problem before i get wurlys soldered by a professional.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu May 16, 2013 1:19 pm

Sorry it hasn't fixed the problem.

Unless it's been damaged in transit though, there shouldn't be anything wrong with the ECU you bought off me - I'd tested it in my car and confirmed it did work 100% correct EDIT: and the seller I bought it off knew it worked fine before selling to me, too

Since the new ECU can be heard to click every time, I'd be inclined at this stage to believe it is still working ok and this one might be showing up what the correct fault code actually is?

So before getting into the new ECU, I'd suggest follow the fault finding guide for code 62 to confirm if it is ECU or the actuator motor/looms connected with that? (code 62 fault finding is a LOT more straight forward than the code 20!!!

)

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 16, 2013 1:33 pm

No worries mate. i was gutted! i was praying it was gonna be an end to the 4ws issues!

Im getting closer to ripping it all out and converting it to 2ws. and i would love to meet the person who decided that the brackets that hold the ecu in place should be razor sharp, lost another sizable chunk of finger today!

when was it tested and has it been sitting around for long?

I will go through the flow chart in the manual to see if there is a problem with the wiring, and im gonna see if a mate of mine will resolder the old ecu again to see if it fares any better.

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 16, 2013 3:49 pm

Completely baffling update:

I noticed when pulling the clock/radio fush under the bonnet that the 15a fuse labled for "interior lights" was blown. the non-working interior light was way down my list of stuff to do, but i thought if its just the fuse, great!
So i picked up a fuse and popped it in, and the lights worked, great.
But then i noticed the 4ws light went off first time. so i tried it about 6 more times and it worked each time.
This was great, until i tried to get the key out of the ignition and it was stuck. like you cant push it in and turn it that last bit to get it out.
removing the 15a fuse for the interior lights lets you remove the key, but the 4ws goes back to being intermittant.

WTF?

I have absolutely no idea where to begin with this....

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu May 16, 2013 7:28 pm

Strange...

At this stage I'd probably run through the diagnostic routine for code 62 and see where that leads. If that turns up the ECU as being knackered, then before taking it off again, I'd put the blown fuse back in (since everything seems to work ok then except the key) and then try to find out why the key can't be taken out.
If you can fix the key fault, then see how the 4WS behaves for a while and if all is ok, leave it like that?

The ECU was last tested working in Feb. Since then it's been stored in the house, so shouldn't have suffered any nasty shocks.
I'd be inclined to have faith in that ECU at the moment, because there are 2 members on here that have had it working fine on their cars?

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 16, 2013 7:45 pm

Yeah after the thing with the fuse i would say you are right in that the ecu is ok.

After have a bit of a think im wondering if its got something to do with that auto shift position box i didnt remove, as i had the same problem with the key when i was fiddling with that to get my reverse lights working. im gonna try taking that out again and bridging the power connections with the fuse in to see if that lets me remove the key.

if i get no joy there i will go through the diagnostics, but all of that seems to be faulty ecu or open in the wiring for code 62, and being that it works sometimes and not others without even moving the car, im thinking its unlikely that its a faulty connection. i just dont understand what the interior light wiring has to do with the 4ws.
at a stretch i can see it being tied into the key lock thing as when the door is open and the key is stuck in, it makes the beeping noise to alert you to leaving the key in, and when you remove the fuse the beeping stops. but i cant quite peice together how it all goes together to prevent the key from being removed, unless that fuse has something to do with the shift position box and when the fuse is in the car thinks its not in park so the key lock is activated.

Im getting closer though, which is nice. and when its all sorted i will be a happy man!

And i only asked about the ecu as if it had been sat in a shed for the last year or so i would have been inclined to open it up and take a look at the connections!

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Thu May 16, 2013 8:04 pm

Is yours an auto. I have a spare jdm auto selector with shift lock and key. Yours for postal cost if you need it.

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Thu May 16, 2013 9:55 pm

take the steering column cover off if you look under the column you will see a electric/magnetic lock that is linked to the auto position selector.
now I am not sure but if you reverse the polarity will it not unlock the key?
The wiring must also have something to do with the steering sensor

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Thu May 16, 2013 10:10 pm

honda-hardy wrote:Is yours an auto. I have a spare jdm auto selector with shift lock and key. Yours for postal cost if you need it.

Nah its an auto to manual conversion.

mercutio wrote:take the steering column cover off if you look under the column you will see a electric/magnetic lock that is linked to the auto position selector.
now I am not sure but if you reverse the polarity will it not unlock the key?
The wiring must also have something to do with the steering sensor

i will give it a try next time i have some spare time to play with the car!

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Mon May 20, 2013 2:12 pm

Right then, 4ws has been working almost perfectly with only one restart required to get it working over the last few days of driving.
this is without the interior lights fuse in place.

Took apart the center console and found i had left the brown connector with the 2 black wires connected to the auto shift position box but the grey connector unplugged. i tried plugging the grey connector back in and with the interior lights fuse in place i could get the key out and i thought all was ok.

I went for a drive and a few minutes in my 4ws light came on and i got a code 20, but this time removing the clock/radio fuse to do a reset worked, unfortunately the light came back on after another few minutes.

I removed the grey connector and the fuse and reset the 4ws and its fine again.

Now i can live without the interior light if i have to, but would like it working really. i was thinking maybe 2 of the wires from the grey connector need bridging? but then i would be worried it would balls up the 4ws.

Picture for reference:

I had a look at the ignition barrel when i had the steering wheel off but couldnt work out which part was the ignition lock. i had a look at a thread for a 3g with the same thing and there was a connector to unplug from the ignition barrel and that was that, i could only find one unpluggable connector on the barrel and couldnt get it off as i was all a bit tight. i tried to get it in the picture but it hasnt come out, its like right at the back of the barrel and it unplugs towards the passenger side. does anyone have a diagram for the ignition barrel or know what all the wires coming off it do??

I have also discovered a nasty noise from the rear laft hand side of the car mainly when im taking an enthusiastic left hand turn, not sure if its anything to do with the 4ws as i cant remember hearing it when it wasnt working.
Its the same kind of sound my mondeo made when it snapped a rear suspention spring. i cant see anything obviously wrong under the car and its just gone through the mot. any ideas on that one? will post a video of the sound in a bit.