Engine heating up then dropping back down?!

[wurlycorner]

Yep, as annoying as it seems, Newkid's right ( that reads wrong - not annoying that Newkid's right, but annoying that it sounds like there's still air in there!!! )

An air lock can cause the temperature gauge to show the wrong temp and the engine to run too rich, because the sensors don't get the genuine temperature of the engine.
However, the engine should still get hot and if anything possibly get too hot?

I'd stick with sorting the air lock first so that's a known to be good then if it's still not getting hot, move onto that.

[kris_aka_edu]

What can I do? I did it 4 times now. Any different techniques?

[wurlycorner]

You should find the sensors are easy to get from a local motor factors, I've done that before no problem. They might well not have in stock, but will be able to get easily (next working day) and they'll be able to look it up in their sensor suppliers parts books.

Ok for reference, guess what I've just found in the larder completely at random;










Did you guess right?
Yes - that's the ECT sender!!!

Original part with unique part identifier on it (that I replaced god knows how many years ago) and the box from the replacement pattern part supplier with part number on it, so any motor factor should be able to match that even if they couldn't find it by looking up the car in their catalogues.

[wurlycorner]

What can I do? I did it 4 times now. Any different techniques?

@GJMHONDA2012 any tips here?
I know your car was a complete sod to bleed recently, but you managed to get it sorted.
Do I remember you doing something like facing the car slightly down a slope in the end?

[kris_aka_edu]

So ill just keep completely re bleading or loosen the nipple and topping up? Does that part you've got work or is it not working mate?

[DaveyBa8]

A car needs to bleed from the highest point, if its on a slop its no good, you can bleed from the radiator cap, if you parked the car facing down a hill it's no good as air rises, it will rise into the heater matrix and stay there. Must be done on a flat surface, or a slight incline facing up the hill when bleeding from the rad cap, turn the engine on, take off the cap, squeeze the pipes to push out air, let it sit idle for a min then with the cap off, put it back on and go for a run, repeat if necessary, also turn the heaters on full. When you start feeling heat coming through your well on your way,

Took hours to bleed and impreza wrx one night, pure kebabs. I was helping a mate over the phone.

[kris_aka_edu]

Yeah did it on a flat surface earlier. That sounds quite easy so will try and give that one a go tomorrow. Cheers for the advise mate.

[BMCC]

If you can raise the front of the car it helps push the air out (I always change the coolant with my car on a set of ramps so that the front is raised). Now I've only ever changed the coolant completely. Empty coolant then Open the bleed valve, pour in coolant, watch the coolant coming out of the bleed bolt, it must be coolant with no bubbles keep putting coolant in till this happens. Close the bleed bolt and then fill the system. Remove the rad cap and start the car up and get up to temp, let it run for a good bit (20 -30 mins) as the air will bubble up to the top of radiator. Once this is done let it cool and top up the system.

If I was you I would also flush the system to get rid of any crap in there. Did you do this before installing the stat?

[kris_aka_edu]

That's a good way of doing it nope didnt do it before I put the stat in. So thinking about it now I could of trapped loads of air in the housing.

[kris_aka_edu]

On my home made ramps.

Squeezing the pipes and the thermostat housing has an air leak. Bingo found the solution? If I have... Next is how to fix the problem?