not getting up to temperature! advice needed please?

[bucks420]

I'm doing a track day at the end of this month at Bedford auto drome if my car is allowed on the track.

Any other ludes going?

what day are you going and have you booked yet? A few of us are going at the start of september which we've booked for, only problem is i've knackered my ankle and cant walk or drive so hoping im sorted in time, if not ill be there just not on track .

[wurlycorner]

as the stat would have to open to allow hot coolant into the heater matrix AFAIK.

Coolant flows through the heater matrix whether the stat is open or closed.


I'm with Phil on this one; you know you have a coolant leak so start there and fix that, then bleed the system. If the level had dropped low enough that the top hose was empty, there almost certainly will be air in the system.

If that's not sorted it, then run the engine up from cold with the rad cap off and see if water is flowing through your rad straight away. If it is then your thermostat is stuck open - change it and re-bleed the system. Instructions are in the service manual and it is an easy job, just make sure you check the new one is the right size - see the pics in the link on Kris's thread and you'll see one pic showing a small and big size. Make sure you fit the right size for your car. If you put the small one in and you can push it a long way up inside the housing, that's the wrong one and you need the bigger thermostat. It should sit pretty much on the outside of the housing.

If water isn't running through your rad straight away, then check the gauge sender unit. You'll need a multimeter measuring resistance. Think the relevant resistance readings are in the service manual somewhere but not sure. If you get to that stage and can't find them, post back on here and I'm sure one of the rest of us will pop out and measure our cars for you.

[BMCC]

Ok I put down what I was meaning badly... If the stat was stuck open you wouldn't get very hot air at the blower it would be luke warm. It is the stat being closed and slowly opening which heats up the coolant and so the air from the blower.

What are the temp of the two hoses like? Is the lower hose similar in temp to the upper hose or is the upper roasting hot and the lower way cooler?

[kris_aka_edu]

I'm doing a track day at the end of this month at Bedford auto drome if my car is allowed on the track.

Any other ludes going?

what day are you going and have you booked yet? A few of us are going at the start of september which we've booked for, only problem is i've knackered my ankle and cant walk or drive so hoping im sorted in time, if not ill be there just not on track .

Booked for Friday 31st mate

[kris_aka_edu]

as the stat would have to open to allow hot coolant into the heater matrix AFAIK.

Coolant flows through the heater matrix whether the stat is open or closed.


I'm with Phil on this one; you know you have a coolant leak so start there and fix that, then bleed the system. If the level had dropped low enough that the top hose was empty, there almost certainly will be air in the system.

If that's not sorted it, then run the engine up from cold with the rad cap off and see if water is flowing through your rad straight away. If it is then your thermostat is stuck open - change it and re-bleed the system. Instructions are in the service manual and it is an easy job, just make sure you check the new one is the right size - see the pics in the link on Kris's thread and you'll see one pic showing a small and big size. Make sure you fit the right size for your car. If you put the small one in and you can push it a long way up inside the housing, that's the wrong one and you need the bigger thermostat. It should sit pretty much on the outside of the housing.

If water isn't running through your rad straight away, then check the gauge sender unit. You'll need a multimeter measuring resistance. Think the relevant resistance readings are in the service manual somewhere but not sure. If you get to that stage and can't find them, post back on here and I'm sure one of the rest of us will pop out and measure our cars for you.

Wurly knows what he's talking about mate. If you free at the weekend ill help you out mate.

[crigal.bb6]

Im going to Ireland on the weekend. . Really appreciate the offer kris and would snap it up with open hands if i was about. Thank you.
I dont think im going to have enough time to sort this properly before i go. Pain in the ass! I will get thermostat tomorrow and try and fit it. Im going to take the hoses the new rad hoses of my unused 5g and put them on the bb4 tomoz. See if that stops the leak for now! Quick fix hopefully and i can sort it 100% when i get back. As for the sender unit thingy lol. I will have a look see and ask a friend to help work it out. Really appreciate all the help guys.
Has anyone bought a high flow rad, dont know much about them? Going to buy one very soon or thats the plan. F**k that old piece of s**t rad that nearly as old as me lol.

[kris_aka_edu]

I just bought another standard one. If the original one lasted 21 years another standard one sure will aswell. Unless you can find a cheap one your happy to pay the money for?
I'm off Friday if that's any use? If your going to order it just make sure it's the more expensive bigger one. And sealing it back up you will need to use a waterproof silicone.

[crigal.bb6]

I finish work at 2.30 friday so i will be free from.say 3 onwards if you would like to give me a point in the right direction. Any sort of help even just a lil bit of extra knowledge would be a bonus.

I'm off Friday if that's any use? If your going to order it just make sure it's the more expensive bigger one. And sealing it back up you will need to use a waterproof silicone.

Would you want me to come to you if yhe offers still ther?

[crigal.bb6]

Got thermostat from euro car parts today 11 quid bargain

[wurlycorner]

In case you can't get together with Kris to sort this, here's how:

Drain cooling system from the drain plug on the back of the rad (middle bottom) and open the rad filler cap to help it drain more quickly.
Page 187 of the 4th gen manual shows the thermostat assembly. It's on the back of the head, drivers side (see where the hose attaches)
You need to undo the 2 outer bolts shown on that drawing, so you remove the Thermostat cover. Then pull the Thermostat out (rubber seal should come with it).
Check new thermostat is the same size as the old one then put the new thermostat in (with rubber seal), refit the housing and do the 2 bolts up. (Shouldn't need silicone sealant for the joint if the rubber seal fits properly, but use it if you want.) DON'T overtighten the bolts, they will snap easily and as you can see from that torque setting (9lb/ft) they shouldn't be done up mega tight.
Close the rad drain, loosen the bleed nipple on top of the thermostat housing and then slowly fill the system with anti-freeze/water mix until coolant comes out clear of bubbles then close the bleed nipple (again, don't overtighten or it will snap)
Finish topping up the rad slowly, until it's full.
Pump (squeeze) the main rad hoses to force out any air through the rad and re-fill.
Start the engine and run it up to temp with the rad cap off. Top up rad level as required then close the rad cap and run it for a while like that, then let it cool and re-check the level/top up as required.

EDIT:Make sure the heater is set to hot before you start to fill the system and leave it like that, otherwise you can get airlocks here too.